Sh-Oligopeptide-87: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sh-Oligopeptide-87?

Sh-Oligopeptide-87 is a lab-engineered version of gamma-brain natriuretic peptide, a short chain of amino acids originally studied for its signaling role in the body. In cosmetics it is made through controlled fermentation where microorganisms are programmed to produce the exact peptide sequence, which is then purified and stabilized for skin and hair formulas. Interest in this ingredient grew when researchers noticed its calming effect on oil-producing cells and its ability to leave hair feeling softer. Over the last decade brands looking for gentle oil control and lightweight conditioning have adopted it, and today you will most often see it in sheet masks, leave-on toners, lightweight moisturizers, scalp serums, and rinse-off or leave-in hair treatments.

Sh-Oligopeptide-87’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators value Sh-Oligopeptide-87 for two key actions that can improve the feel and look of both skin and hair.

  • Anti-Sebum – Helps regulate excess oil on the skin surface so products aimed at shiny or breakout-prone skin feel fresher longer and leave a matte finish without harsh drying agents
  • Hair Conditioning – Coats the hair cuticle lightly to boost smoothness and manageability enhancing softness without weighing strands down which suits daily conditioners and leave-in sprays

Who Can Use Sh-Oligopeptide-87

This peptide suits most skin types, especially oily and combination skin that wants lighter moisture and better shine control. Normal skin can also enjoy its balancing feel while very dry or highly sensitive skin may find it less hydrating than richer actives and should pair it with a nourishing moisturizer if tightness occurs. Because it is made through plant based fermentation without animal by-products it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Current safety reviews show no specific risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the peptide is applied topically yet this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new products. Sh-Oligopeptide-87 does not raise the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight and can be worn day or night without the need for extra sun precautions beyond a daily sunscreen.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from one person to another so the points below list possible side effects rather than what most users will experience. When formulated and used as directed Sh-Oligopeptide-87 is generally well tolerated.

  • Temporary redness or warmth – usually minor and short lived in reactive skin
  • Mild itching or tingling – can appear during the first few uses as skin adapts
  • Dry or tight feeling – may occur on naturally low oil skin if the formula lacks added moisturisers
  • Contact dermatitis – rare allergic reaction to the peptide or other ingredients in the product
  • Eye irritation – possible if hair or scalp products run into the eyes during rinsing

If any negative reaction is noticed stop use right away and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5  Sh-Oligopeptide-87 is a small, water-soluble peptide that rinses cleanly from skin and hair so it does not build up inside pores or leave an occlusive film. Because it lacks heavy oils or waxes it earns a non-comedogenic score of zero. This makes the ingredient a safe option for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. The only caveat is that the final product formula matters; if the peptide is blended with richer emollients the overall product could still clog pores.

Summary

Sh-Oligopeptide-87 balances excess sebum on the skin and smooths the hair cuticle by forming a lightweight, breathable layer of amino acids that signals surface cells to behave more evenly. These two actions help reduce shine on oily skin and add softness to hair without weight. Though not yet a mass-market superstar, the peptide has gained steady interest among indie and dermatologist-led brands that want gentle oil control and vegan-friendly conditioning. Current research and post-market use show it to be a low-risk ingredient with only minor, infrequent reactions reported. As with any new cosmetic active, give yourself extra peace of mind by patch testing a small area before full application.

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