Sh-Polypeptide-108: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sh-Polypeptide-108?

Sh-Polypeptide-108 is a lab made copy of a naturally occurring human protein called granulysin. Scientists start with a synthetic version of the gene that codes for granulysin, insert it into a harmless strain of E. coli, then let the bacteria ferment in a controlled tank. The bacteria read the gene like an instruction manual and build a single chain peptide of up to 145 amino acids that may form disulfide bonds or carry simple sugar groups. After fermentation the peptide is purified, filtered and standardized so it is safe for skin care use.

This biotech approach took shape in the early 2000s as cosmetic formulators searched for gentler alternatives to traditional antibacterial agents. Because recombinant technology can produce consistent high purity material, Sh-Polypeptide-108 soon found its way into water based serums, spot treatments for oily skin, lightweight moisturizers and sheet masks aimed at reducing visible oil and keeping blemish prone skin clear.

Sh-Polypeptide-108’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

When added to a formula Sh-Polypeptide-108 offers several skin friendly actions:

  • Anti-Sebum: Helps regulate excess oil on the surface of the skin which can give products a mattifying effect and reduce the shine that often appears a few hours after cleansing
  • Antimicrobial: Targets certain bacteria on the skin that contribute to clogged pores and visible breakouts thereby supporting a clearer looking complexion without relying on harsher chemical preservatives
  • Skin Conditioning: Binds water and smooths the skin’s surface leaving it feeling soft balanced and comfortable instead of stripped

Who Can Use Sh-Polypeptide-108

Because it helps balance oil without stripping moisture Sh-Polypeptide-108 suits oily, combination and normal skin especially those prone to breakouts. Drier complexions can still use it in a hydrating formula, but very dry or eczema-prone skin might prefer richer soothing ingredients since the peptide’s light mattifying touch is not geared for intense moisture replenishment.

The peptide is produced by fermenting bacteria and is completely free of animal derived materials so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.

No data links Sh-Polypeptide-108 to hormonal effects, systemic absorption or developmental risk, so it is generally considered okay for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should confirm product choices with a healthcare professional.

The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be used day or night without raising the risk of sunburn. As with any antimicrobial agent it pairs well with most common actives, including niacinamide and salicylic acid, without known negative cross reactions.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any skincare ingredient can vary from person to person. The points below outline uncommon but possible effects you could experience when using Sh-Polypeptide-108; most people will not notice any of these problems when the product is formulated and applied as directed.

  • Temporary redness or warmth especially on very sensitive skin
  • Dry patches or mild tightness if layered with multiple oil-control products
  • Stinging or tingling on open cuts or compromised skin barriers
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to one of the formula’s other ingredients or to the peptide itself
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally drips into the eyes

If you experience any persistent discomfort or visible irritation stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5 – Sh-Polypeptide-108 is a water-soluble peptide that sits lightly on the skin and rinses away without leaving an occlusive film, so it does not trap dead cells or sebum inside pores. Its molecule is far too large to slip into follicular openings, and it does not rely on oily carriers to stay stable. For these reasons it is considered non comedogenic and is well suited to people who struggle with acne or frequent breakouts. If a product containing this peptide does cause congestion the culprit is almost always another richer ingredient in the same formula, not the peptide itself.

Summary

Sh-Polypeptide-108 conditions skin, reins in excess sebum and limits growth of blemish-causing microbes. It does this by mimicking the human protein granulysin which naturally disrupts bacterial membranes while helping skin stay balanced. Because it is produced through precise fermentation it delivers these benefits in a consistent pure form.

The ingredient is still something of a niche player compared with classic actives like niacinamide or salicylic acid, yet its biotech backstory and gentle multitasking nature are helping it show up in more oil-control serums and spot treatments each year.

Current safety data and real-world use point to a low risk of irritation or systemic effects when used as directed. As with any new skincare step it is smart to perform a quick patch test to rule out personal sensitivities before applying a full face product that contains Sh-Polypeptide-108.

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