Sh-Polypeptide-90: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sh-Polypeptide-90?

Sh-Polypeptide-90 is a lab engineered chain of amino acids designed to mimic Hyaluronate Synthase 2, the enzyme that helps our skin make hyaluronic acid. It does not come from animal tissue; instead it is produced through bio fermentation, where genetically guided microbes build the peptide in clean, controlled tanks. After harvesting the ferment, the peptide is purified and then freeze dried into a fine powder that is easy to blend into creams and serums.

The beauty world first showed interest in this peptide in the early 2010s when brands looked for gentler ways to boost skin moisture without using animal-sourced collagen. Once formulators noticed its ability to defend against free radicals and pull water to the skin surface, Sh-Polypeptide-90 began appearing in premium anti aging lines. Today you will find it in sheet masks, leave-on moisturizers, eye gels, hydrating sprays and targeted treatments aimed at dull or dehydrated skin.

Sh-Polypeptide-90’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators turn to Sh-Polypeptide-90 for three main reasons

  • Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals created by UV light and pollution which can otherwise weaken collagen and speed up the look of aging
  • Humectant: Attracts and binds water from the environment and deeper skin layers, giving a plumper smoother appearance and supporting healthy barrier function
  • Skin Conditioning: Softens the surface, improves suppleness and can enhance the feel of other actives in the formula, making the overall product more pleasant to use

Who Can Use Sh-Polypeptide-90

Because it acts mainly as a moisture magnet and antioxidant, Sh-Polypeptide-90 agrees with most skin types. Dry and mature skin often see the biggest boost in softness and bounce, while oily or combination skin can use it for lightweight hydration since it sinks in without leaving a greasy film. Even sensitive skin usually tolerates the peptide well because it is non acidic and free of common irritants. At this time there are no known concerns that make it unsuitable for any specific skin type.

The peptide is produced through bio fermentation and does not involve any animal derived materials, making it a good match for vegans and vegetarians looking to avoid animal sourced collagen or elastin.

No data suggests Sh-Polypeptide-90 is harmful to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, yet research during these life stages is limited. This content is not medical advice; anyone expecting or nursing should show the ingredient list to a qualified healthcare provider before adding a new product, just to be safe.

Sh-Polypeptide-90 is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended to guard against UV damage.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any topical ingredient can vary from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects linked to Sh-Polypeptide-90, but most users will not run into these issues when the product is well formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild redness or warmth right after application
  • Temporary stinging on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching or small bumps
  • Interaction with highly acidic products which could destabilize the peptide and lead to irritation

If any discomfort, rash or swelling appears, stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 out of 5

Sh-Polypeptide-90 is water soluble, used at very low concentrations and leaves no oily residue, so it does not clog pores. Its humectant nature draws water rather than oil to the skin surface, which helps keep follicle openings clear. Because of this, Sh-Polypeptide-90 is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

As with any formula, the overall product’s pore-clogging potential depends on the full ingredient list. A lightweight serum containing this peptide will behave differently from a rich balm that carries the same peptide.

Summary

Sh-Polypeptide-90 works as an antioxidant, humectant and skin-conditioning agent. By mimicking Hyaluronate Synthase 2, it encourages skin to hold on to moisture, smooths texture and helps defend against free radicals that can age skin prematurely.

While not yet a household name, it shows up more often in mid to high-end moisturizers, sheet masks and eye products where gentle hydration and barrier support are selling points. Its vegan source and broad skin tolerance have boosted its appeal among both formulators and consumers looking for modern alternatives to animal-derived proteins.

Current research and user reports point to a high safety profile with minimal irritation risk, making it an easy addition to most routines. Even so, skin is personal, so patch testing any new product containing Sh-Polypeptide-90 is a smart step before full-face use.

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