What Is Sodium Sesamphoacetate?
Sodium Sesamphoacetate is an amphoteric surfactant made from sesame seed oil. Chemically it is an amide formed by linking fatty acids from sesame with a gentle, water-loving molecule called hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl ethylenediamine, then neutralizing the mixture with sodium to create a salt that dissolves easily in water. The result is a mild, plant-derived cleanser that carries both positive and negative charges, allowing it to work well in a wide pH range.
Interest in softer, more sustainable surfactants grew in the late 1980s as formulators searched for alternatives to harsher sulfates. Sesame oil offered a renewable option rich in unsaturated fatty acids, and chemists developed Sodium Sesamphoacetate to take advantage of its skin-friendly profile. Over the years it has become a niche but valued ingredient in gentle hair and skin care formulas.
Manufacturing starts with refined sesame seed oil. The oil is hydrolyzed to release its fatty acids, which are then reacted with an amino alcohol under controlled heat to form the amide backbone. This intermediate is treated with chloroacetic acid to add the carboxymethyl group, then the final mixture is neutralized with sodium hydroxide. The finished ingredient is filtered, quality-checked and supplied as a clear to pale liquid.
You will most often see Sodium Sesamphoacetate in sulfate-free shampoos, co-wash conditioners, facial cleansers, micellar waters, body washes, baby washes, shaving foams and bubble baths where formulators want mild cleansing and rich foam without stripping natural oils.
Sodium Sesamphoacetate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings several helpful functions to modern cosmetic formulas
- Cleansing: Lifts away dirt, excess oil and daily grime while remaining gentle on skin and hair so it suits sensitive routines
- Hair conditioning: Leaves a light conditioning film that smooths the cuticle, aiding detangling and boosting softness without heaviness
- Foam boosting: Enhances the quantity and stability of lather, giving products a creamy luxurious feel that consumers associate with effective cleansing
Who Can Use Sodium Sesamphoacetate
Sodium Sesamphoacetate is considered gentle enough for nearly all skin and hair types. Its mild, amphoteric nature means it cleans without stripping, so dry, oily, combination, mature and sensitive skin usually tolerate it well. The main exception is anyone with a known sesame allergy since the molecule is derived from sesame seed oil and trace allergenic proteins can remain.
The ingredient is plant based and produced without animal by-products or animal testing in modern supply chains, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals are not expected to absorb meaningful systemic levels from normal topical use and no reproductive toxicity has been reported. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to their healthcare provider before use just to be safe.
Sodium Sesamphoacetate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not considered photosensitising. It also works across a wide pH range which means it can be paired with most actives without destabilising them.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Sodium Sesamphoacetate vary from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient has been properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or itching, more common in very sensitive or compromised skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to sesame seed derivatives
- Eye stinging or watering if the product gets into the eyes during use
- Excessive dryness if used in high concentrations or combined with other strong surfactants in the same formula
- Build-up on hair when layered with certain cationic conditioners, potentially leading to weighed-down strands
If you experience any negative reaction stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 (very low)
Sodium Sesamphoacetate is highly water-soluble and designed to rinse away cleanly, leaving minimal residue that could block pores. Although it is made from sesame fatty acids, the final amphoteric salt behaves more like a mild detergent than an oil. Its lightweight film-forming action on hair does not translate to occlusion on facial skin, so the likelihood of clogging pores remains low.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin in most rinse-off or leave-on formats.
Because this ingredient is almost always used in wash-off products, real-world exposure time is short which further reduces any risk of pore congestion.
Summary
Sodium Sesamphoacetate is a plant-derived surfactant that cleanses, conditions hair and boosts foam by carrying both positive and negative charges that lift away dirt while leaving a light, smoothing film. Its mildness makes it a useful alternative to harsher sulfates, especially in sulfate-free shampoos, baby washes and gentle facial cleansers.
The ingredient is still a niche choice compared with mainstream surfactants but its popularity is growing among brands focused on sensitive skin and eco-friendly sourcing.
Overall safety is considered high with low irritation potential aside from rare sesame allergies. As with any new cosmetic product it is smart to do a quick patch test before full use just to make sure your skin agrees with the formula.