What Is Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate?
Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate is a modified form of hyaluronic acid, a sugar naturally found in skin. Chemists start with standard hyaluronic acid and react it with two small acids, thioctic acid and formic acid, then convert the result to its sodium salt. This extra step gives the molecule new properties while keeping the water-loving backbone that makes hyaluronic acid so popular. The ingredient appeared in cosmetic labs in the late 2010s when formulators searched for next-generation hydrators that could do more than plain hyaluronic acid. By tweaking the structure they discovered a version that clings to skin longer and attracts moisture even in drier climates.
Manufacturing begins with biotechnologically produced hyaluronic acid, usually fermented from plant sugars. It is purified, then esterified with thioctic and formic acids in a controlled reaction tank. After washing and neutralizing, the mixture is converted to its sodium form, dried and milled into a fine powder ready for creams and serums.
You will spot Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate in lightweight moisturizers, anti-aging serums, leave-on masks, eye creams and occasional after-sun gels. Brands choose it when they want a fast-absorbing feel that still delivers lasting hydration and a smoother skin surface.
Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient mainly serves one purpose in skincare formulas but it does that job exceptionally well.
As a humectant it draws water from the environment and the deeper layers of skin toward the surface, helping to maintain optimal moisture levels. Well-hydrated skin looks plumper, feels softer and shows fewer fine lines. Because the modified molecule holds onto water more tightly than standard hyaluronic acid it can keep skin comfortable for longer periods without a heavy or sticky finish.
Who Can Use Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate
This hydrator suits almost every skin type. Dry and mature skin benefit from its strong water-binding ability while oily or combination complexions appreciate the light feel that never turns greasy. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well because the molecule is large enough to stay near the surface and rarely disrupts the barrier. There are no known concerns for darker skin tones or acne-prone users, though individual formulas can still vary.
The raw material is produced by fermenting plant sugars instead of using animal tissue so it is considered suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
No safety issues specific to pregnancy or breastfeeding have been reported with topical use. This information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review new skincare products with a qualified doctor to be sure they fit their personal situation.
Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be worn day or night without affecting SPF performance. It mixes well with most common actives such as niacinamide and vitamin C, giving formulators plenty of flexibility.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but unlikely for most users when the ingredient is correctly formulated and applied.
- Temporary redness or warmth, especially on very sensitive skin
- Mild itching or tingling if the barrier is already compromised
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis resulting in swelling or rash
- Dryness if used in extremely low humidity without an occlusive moisturizer on top
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5
Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate is a large water-soluble molecule that sits on the surface and attracts moisture instead of sinking into pores. It contains no oily or waxy parts that could block follicles so the likelihood of causing blackheads or breakouts is extremely low. This makes it suitable for people prone to acne or congestion.
Keep in mind that finished products often blend this ingredient with emollients or silicones that may have higher comedogenic scores so always consider the full formula.
Summary
Sodium Thiooctoyl/Formoyl Hyaluronate acts mainly as a humectant. Its tweaked structure grips water more tightly than standard hyaluronic acid which helps skin stay hydrated smooth and plump for longer. Because it is light and non-greasy it fits well into serums lotions and eye creams.
The ingredient is still a newcomer so it shows up mostly in mid to high-end skincare rather than every drugstore shelf, yet its performance is earning steady interest from formulators.
Topical use is considered very safe with a low risk of irritation or pore clogging. Even so skin is personal so patch test any new product that contains this or any other active to make sure it suits you.