What Is Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids?
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids is a specialty ingredient created by bonding fragments of marine or bovine collagen with undecylenic acid, a fatty acid derived from castor oil, then neutralizing the mixture with either sodium hydroxide or triethanolamine (TEA). The result is a water-soluble salt that carries both the skin-loving profile of collagen amino acids and the surface-active properties of fatty acids. First introduced in the late 1990s as brands searched for milder surfactants, it quickly gained popularity in Japan and Europe before making its way into global formulations.
Production starts with enzymatically hydrolyzing collagen to obtain short-chain amino acids that dissolve easily in water. These amino acids are reacted with 10-undecenoyl chloride to form an amide linkage, giving the molecule its gentle cleansing character. Finally, controlled neutralization with sodium or TEA converts the material into a stable salt suitable for cosmetic use.
Because it offers both conditioning and cleansing, you will often find Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids in sulfate-free shampoos, micellar facial cleansers, baby washes, leave-in hair treatments, hydrating sheet masks and lightweight anti-aging moisturizers aimed at sensitive skin.
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient delivers several performance benefits in modern formulas.
- Cleansing: Its mild surfactant nature lifts away dirt oil and makeup without stripping, making it ideal for gentle cleansers and micellar waters
- Antistatic: By reducing static buildup on hair fibers it helps tame flyaways and leaves strands smoother, enhancing combability in shampoos and conditioners
- Hair Conditioning: The collagen-derived amino acids form a lightweight film that improves softness and imparts a subtle gloss, supporting healthy-looking hair after rinse-off
Who Can Use Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids
Because it is classified as a mild, low foaming surfactant with built-in conditioning properties, Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids is generally well tolerated by all skin types, including dry, combination, oily and sensitive. Its amino acid backbone helps maintain moisture while the undecylenoyl portion lifts away grime without over-stripping, making it a good choice for easily irritated or compromised skin. There are no reports of the ingredient aggravating acne or rosacea when formulated correctly.
Collagen is typically sourced from fish skin or bovine hides, which means the finished material is not suitable for vegans or strict vegetarians. A few specialty suppliers offer a recombinant or plant-based version, but unless the label clearly states “vegan collagen,” those following a plant-only lifestyle should assume the ingredient is animal derived.
No research indicates that topical use poses a risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when used at the low percentages found in finished cosmetics. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run the product past a healthcare professional before adding it to a routine.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also color-safe for chemically treated hair and is considered biodegradable, a plus for eco-conscious users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from person to person. The points below outline potential, but unlikely, reactions to Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids when used topically. Most consumers will experience none of these issues if the product has been formulated and preserved properly.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness, itching or stinging
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to collagen or triethanolamine residues
- Eye irritation if the raw ingredient or foam accidentally gets into the eyes during use
- Protein overload on very fine or low porosity hair, leading to a temporarily stiff feel
- Buildup on the scalp or skin if the product is not rinsed thoroughly, which could contribute to dullness or clogged follicles
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and consult a medical professional or pharmacist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1. Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids is a small, water-soluble salt that rinses clean and does not leave an oily film. Its collagen amino acids are lightweight while the undecylenoyl part offers mild cleansing without coating pores. Because it lacks heavy lipids or waxes that can trap sebum, the likelihood of clogging pores is minimal.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
As with any surfactant, build-up is only possible if the product is not rinsed away properly, so thorough rinsing helps keep pores clear.
Summary
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids cleanses, conditions hair and reduces static by combining water-soluble collagen amino acids with a gentle fatty acid salt. The amino acids bind moisture and form a light protective film, while the undecylenoyl side lifts dirt and oil then rinses away, giving a two-in-one clean and conditioning effect.
Although not as famous as coconut-based surfactants, it has a niche following in sulfate-free shampoos, baby washes and sensitive skin cleansers thanks to its mild profile and touch of protein care.
Current safety data shows a very low irritation risk when used at typical cosmetic levels. Still, skin can be unpredictable, so it is wise to patch test any new product containing this ingredient before full use.