What Is Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein?
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a plant-derived ingredient made by breaking down soy protein into smaller fragments then attaching them to undecylenic acid, a fatty acid obtained from castor oil, and finally neutralizing the mix with sodium and triethanolamine. This process creates a water-soluble compound that combines the film-forming qualities of proteins with the surface-active nature of mild cleansers. First explored in the late 1990s as a gentler alternative to sulfates, it quickly found favor with formulators looking for eco-friendly yet effective cleansing agents.
Production starts with defatted soy meal that is enzymatically hydrolyzed into short peptides. These peptides react with 10-undecenoic acid to form undecylenoyl derivatives, which are then converted to their sodium and TEA salts for stability and ease of use. The result is a versatile liquid that blends smoothly into water-based systems.
You will spot Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein in sulfate-free shampoos, micellar facial cleansers, soothing body washes, leave-in hair conditioners, lightweight moisturizers and even sheet masks where it boosts foam or slip while leaving skin and hair soft.
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multifunctional ingredient improves both the feel and performance of everyday beauty products
- Cleansing: Acts as a mild surfactant that lifts away dirt and oil without stripping natural moisture so formulas feel gentle enough for daily use and sensitive skin
- Hair Conditioning: The soy peptides form a light film along the hair shaft, smoothing cuticles, reducing frizz and adding subtle body which helps hair look healthier and easier to style
- Skin Conditioning: Peptides bind water on the skin surface, enhancing softness and suppleness while the fatty portion offers a silky after-feel that can make lotions feel more luxurious
Who Can Use Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
This ingredient is generally considered suitable for all skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive because it cleanses without harsh sulfates and leaves a soft conditioning film. Those with very reactive or allergy-prone skin should still check the full formula for other triggers, but the soy-derived peptides themselves are mild.
Because it is made from plant sources (soy and castor oil) and the remaining components are synthetic rather than animal derived, products featuring this ingredient are usually acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. As always, certification logos or a quick look at the full ingredient list will confirm a product’s status.
Topical use is not known to pose risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, yet individual circumstances differ. This information is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run new skincare or haircare products past a qualified healthcare professional to stay on the safe side.
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein does not increase photosensitivity, so there is no need for extra sun precautions beyond normal daily SPF habits.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild skin irritation – a temporary stinging or redness can appear if the surrounding formula contains other sensitising agents or if skin is already compromised
- Allergic contact dermatitis – very rare but possible in people with a documented soy allergy
- Eye discomfort – if a cleanser containing the ingredient gets into the eyes it can cause brief tearing or burning until rinsed out
- Product buildup on hair – overuse in leave-in conditioners may leave fine hair feeling coated or weighed down
If any itching, burning or swelling develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional for tailored advice.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is highly water soluble and has a small molecular size so it tends to rinse away without clogging pores. The undecylenoyl portion adds a light, fatty feel but it is present as a salt, not an oil, which keeps residue to a minimum. Because it rarely lingers on skin and lacks heavy waxes or butters, the risk of blocked pores is low.
Suitable for most people prone to acne or breakouts.
Do keep in mind that the overall formula matters; pairing this ingredient with rich occlusive emollients could alter the final product’s pore-clogging potential.
Summary
Sodium/Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein works as a mild cleanser, skin conditioner and hair conditioner in one. The soy peptides form a light film that smooths cuticles and softens skin while the undecylenoyl group provides gentle surfactant action to lift away dirt and oil. The result is cleansers that foam without stripping and conditioners that leave a silky finish.
It enjoys niche popularity in sulfate-free shampoos and sensitive-skin cleansers, yet it has not broken into the mainstream the way coconut-based surfactants have. Still, formulators appreciate its plant origin and multitasking nature.
Overall safety is considered very good with a low likelihood of irritation or pore congestion. As with any new skincare or haircare product, patch testing is a smart precaution before full use.