Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate?

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate is a specialty ester created from sorbitol, ethylene oxide and oleic acid. Chemically it is the tetraester of oleic acid and a polyethylene glycol ether of sorbitol that contains about 230 repeating units of ethylene oxide. The long ethylene oxide chain makes the molecule water loving while the oleic acid part is oil loving, giving the ingredient a dual nature that is valuable in skin care formulas.

The sorbitol portion comes from plant sugars, most commonly corn or sugar cane. Manufacturers first react sorbitol with ethylene oxide to build the long polyethylene glycol chain, then esterify the resulting material with four units of oleic acid sourced from vegetable oils such as olive or sunflower. This two-step process yields a clear to slightly hazy liquid that dissolves well in both water and oils, making it easy to add during the blending stage of cosmetic production.

Surfactants based on sorbitol have been around since the 1950s when formulators searched for milder cleansers than traditional soap. As chemists extended the ethoxylation level they discovered the material also worked as an efficient emulsifier, allowing creams and lotions to stay smooth without separation. Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate is one of the higher ethoxylation grades and has found a niche in products that need both mild cleansing and stable emulsification.

Today you can spot Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, lightweight moisturizers, sheet mask essences, sun care products and even some hair conditioners. Its ability to control viscosity means formulators can fine tune the thickness of gels or lotions without relying on heavy gums that may feel sticky.

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multifaceted ingredient brings several practical advantages to everyday beauty products.

  • Cleansing: Its surfactant nature lifts dirt, oil and makeup from the skin so they can be rinsed away with water leaving the surface fresh yet comfortable
  • Emulsifying: The molecule bridges water and oil phases helping creams and lotions stay uniform over time which prevents separation and ensures each application delivers consistent performance
  • Viscosity Controlling: It can loosen or thicken a formula depending on the concentration allowing brands to achieve a desired texture from watery toners to creamy masks without altering the core recipe

Who Can Use Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily because it is generally mild and non stripping. Sensitive or highly reactive skin can usually tolerate it, but anyone with a known allergy to polyethylene glycol or oleic acid derivatives should steer clear because irritation could develop. The ingredient is manufactured from plant based sorbitol and vegetable sourced oleic acid, with no animal derivatives involved, so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current research shows no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate is used topically in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider before use just to be safe.

The molecule itself does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not regarded as photosensitising. It is also fragrance free and has no known interactions with common active ingredients such as retinoids or vitamin C, adding to its versatility in layered routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate vary from person to person and the issues listed below are only possibilities. When included at appropriate cosmetic levels most users will not notice any problems.

  • Mild transient redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to polyethylene glycol or oleic acid derivatives
  • Eye irritation if product enters the eyes before rinsing
  • Rare pore clogging when heavy leave on formulas are used on extremely acne prone skin
  • Enhanced penetration of other actives which could amplify their irritation potential

If you experience any adverse reaction discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate carries a single oleic acid tail per branch but its large hydrophilic polyethylene glycol backbone keeps the whole molecule highly water soluble so it does not sit on skin long enough to block pores. Published raw material assessments and user feedback rarely link it to acne flare-ups which is why it earns a low score of 1.

This rating means the ingredient is generally suitable for people who are prone to breakouts, especially when used in rinse-off or lightweight leave-on products.

Formulas with very high oil loads or paired with heavy occlusives could raise the risk slightly, though that would be more about the overall recipe than Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate itself.

Summary

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate works as a mild cleanser, sturdy emulsifier and handy viscosity controller by combining a water loving polyethylene glycol chain with oil loving oleic acid esters. This dual personality allows it to lift grime from skin, keep oil and water mixed in creams and fine tune texture without extra thickeners.

The ingredient enjoys quiet popularity in micellar waters makeup removers and modern gel creams rather than blockbuster fame, mainly because it hides behind more marketable actives while doing the technical heavy lifting.

Safety data show it is low risk for irritation or pore clogging when used at cosmetic levels. Still it is smart to patch test any new product that contains Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate just to confirm personal compatibility.

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