Soyamide Dea: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Soyamide Dea?

Soyamide Dea is a plant-derived ingredient created from the fatty acids found in soybean oil, chemically transformed into an amide by reacting them with diethanolamine. The result is N,N-bis(hydroxyethyl) soya amide, a waxy to viscous substance that mixes readily with water and oils. It first appeared in personal care manufacturing in the 1960s when formulators were looking for gentler alternatives to harsher petrochemical surfactants. Because soybean crops are widely available and renewable, the industry quickly adopted Soyamide Dea as a cost-effective multifunctional helper ingredient.

The production process starts with refining soybean oil, splitting it into fatty acids then reacting those acids with diethanolamine under controlled heat and pressure. After purification the material is ready for use in cosmetic labs where it is valued for its surface activity and texture-enhancing traits.

You will most often spot Soyamide Dea on the ingredient lists of shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, bubble baths, shaving creams, hand soaps, creams, lotions, masks and other rinse-off or leave-on formulas that need stable foam and a pleasant thickness.

Soyamide Dea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators like Soyamide Dea because it pulls double, triple and even quintuple duty in a single blend

  • Emulsion stabilising – Helps oil and water stay evenly mixed so lotions and creams remain smooth throughout shelf life
  • Cleansing – Lifts away dirt and excess oil from skin and hair without a stripping feel, improving overall cleansing efficiency
  • Emulsifying – Acts as a bridge between water and oil phases making it easier to build stable emulsions
  • Foam boosting – Enhances the richness and staying power of foam in shampoos and body washes giving users that satisfying lather
  • Viscosity controlling – Thickens formulas so they feel luxurious and are less likely to run off the skin or leak from packaging

Who Can Use Soyamide Dea

Soyamide Dea is generally considered friendly for most skin types. Its mild cleansing action suits normal, oily and combination skin while its ability to reduce stripping makes it pleasant for many dry skin users. People with very sensitive or reactive skin should proceed with a bit more caution because amides derived from diethanolamine can cause irritation in a small percentage of users, especially at higher concentrations.

The ingredient is plant sourced from soybean oil, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. As always check the full product label in case other animal derived materials are present.

No published data suggest a specific hazard for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Soyamide Dea is used topically in cosmetic levels, particularly in rinse-off products where contact time is brief. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run their skincare choices past a qualified doctor to be safe.

Soyamide Dea is not known to cause photosensitivity and does not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with common active ingredients like AHAs or retinoids without affecting their performance.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to Soyamide Dea vary from person to person. The points below outline potential, not guaranteed, side effects. In properly formulated products most users experience none of these issues.

  • Skin irritation – Redness, itching or a stinging sensation can occur, most often in sensitive skin or when the ingredient is used at very high levels
  • Contact dermatitis – Rare allergic responses marked by rash or swelling have been reported with some DEA derivatives
  • Eye irritation – If a cleanser or shampoo runs into the eyes it may cause temporary burning or watering
  • Dryness or tight feel – Overuse of foaming cleansers may strip natural oils leading to a dry sensation
  • Scalp build-up – In haircare products excessive concentration can leave a waxy film on fine hair types
  • Nitrosamine concern – When DEA compounds are mixed with nitrosating agents they can form trace nitrosamines, though reputable manufacturers control this risk with strict formulation guidelines

If you notice any unwanted reaction stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2/5

The soybean-based fatty acids in Soyamide Dea are mostly unsaturated and lighter in texture, so they are less prone to blocking pores than heavier waxes or butters. Usage levels are usually low and the ingredient often appears in rinse-off products, which further limits contact time. Even so it can form a slight film, so extremely clog-prone skin might notice issues in leave-on formulas, giving it a cautious rating of 2.

Acne-prone suitability: Generally fine for people who break out, especially in cleansers and shampoos, but those with very reactive pores may want to monitor leave-on use.

Remember that overall formulation and how well the product is rinsed matter more than this single ingredient when it comes to pore congestion.

Summary

Soyamide Dea stabilises emulsions, boosts and refines foam, cleanses by lifting away grime, helps oil and water combine and thickens formulas for a richer feel. It achieves these roles by lowering surface tension at the oil-water boundary and adding body to liquid systems.

Its ability to tick several boxes at a reasonable cost keeps it popular in everyday shampoos, body washes and creams even as newer plant-based surfactants enter the market.

When used at cosmetic concentrations it is considered low risk, with modern manufacturing controlling potential nitrosamine formation. Still, play it safe and patch test any new product that lists Soyamide Dea if your skin is sensitive or unpredictable.

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