Sparassis Crispa/Oenanthe Javanica Leaf/Stem Ferment Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Sparassis Crispa/Oenanthe Javanica Leaf/Stem Ferment Filtrate?

Sparassis Crispa/Oenanthe Javanica Leaf/Stem Ferment Filtrate is a plant and mushroom derived liquid used in skincare. It starts with the leafy stems of Oenanthe javanica, a water loving herb often called water dropwort or Korean parsley. These fresh parts are blended with water to draw out vitamins, flavonoids, minerals and moisture retaining sugars. The broth is then inoculated with Sparassis crispa, a cauliflower shaped mushroom prized for its rich polysaccharides. Over several days the mushroom ferments the plant extract, breaking large molecules into smaller skin friendly compounds while adding its own beta glucans and amino acids. The mixture is finally filtered to remove solids, leaving a clear to pale amber filtrate that is easy to add to cosmetic bases.

Fermented botanicals gained popularity through Korean beauty labs in the early 2010s when formulators noticed that traditional fermentation made extracts gentler yet more potent. Since then this particular filtrate has appeared in sheet masks, hydrating essences, anti aging serums, soothing gels, daily moisturizers and after sun products where a light, water based active is desired.

Sparassis Crispa/Oenanthe Javanica Leaf/Stem Ferment Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is chiefly valued for one key job in skincare formulations.

Skin conditioning: the ferment supplies humectant sugars, softening amino acids and calming beta glucans that help skin hold water, feel smoother and look more supple. Regular use can improve overall texture, support the skin barrier and give a fresh, dewy finish without heaviness.

Who Can Use Sparassis Crispa/Oenanthe Javanica Leaf/Stem Ferment Filtrate

This ferment filtrate is well tolerated by most skin types. Its light watery texture and humectant profile suit dry, normal and combination skin that needs extra moisture without oil. Sensitive skin often appreciates the soothing beta glucans. Oily or acne-prone users can also benefit because the ingredient is non-greasy and does not clog pores.

The source materials are a plant and a mushroom so the filtrate is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived components or by-products are used during fermentation, filtration or preservation.

Current data does not flag risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is applied topically in cosmetic concentrations. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products, just to be safe.

The filtrate is not known to cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Regular broad-spectrum sunscreen is still recommended as part of a daily routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Sparassis Crispa/Oenanthe Javanica Leaf/Stem Ferment Filtrate vary from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is included at standard cosmetic levels.

  • Transient stinging or redness
  • Mild itching or burning on very reactive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis for individuals sensitive to mushroom or parsley family botanicals
  • Breakouts in rare cases if combined with occlusive formulas that trap heat and moisture
  • Contamination-related irritation if a finished product is improperly preserved

If any persistent irritation or other negative reaction occurs stop use immediately and consult a dermatologist or healthcare provider.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5

This filtrate is a water-based ingredient free of heavy oils, waxes or fatty alcohols that could block pores. Its primary components are low-molecular-weight sugars, amino acids and beta glucans, all of which dissolve readily in water and rinse off cleanly. Because it does not leave an occlusive film on the skin it is not expected to trap sebum or dead cells, conditions that typically lead to comedones.

Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin.

One point to note is that the finished product’s overall formula matters; pairing this filtrate with highly occlusive butters or insufficient preservatives could still contribute to congestion or irritation even though the filtrate itself is non-comedogenic.

Summary

Sparassis Crispa/Oenanthe Javanica Leaf/Stem Ferment Filtrate is mainly used as a skin-conditioning agent. Through fermentation it delivers humectant sugars that draw water to the skin, soothing beta glucans that calm redness and small peptides that support a smooth resilient barrier. The result is softer more hydrated skin with a healthy glow.

The ingredient enjoys moderate popularity, especially in Korean skincare where fermented botanicals are a familiar staple, though it remains relatively niche compared with heavyweight actives like hyaluronic acid.

Current data shows it to be very safe for topical use with low risk of irritation or allergy for most users. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains this ferment just to be on the safe side.

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