What Is Sucrose Mortierellate?
Sucrose Mortierellate is a plant-sugar-based ester created by linking sucrose with the fatty acids found in Mortierella oil, a nutrient-rich oil produced by the Mortierella fungus. Combining a water-loving sugar and oil-loving fatty acids gives the molecule a balanced character that blends easily with both water and oils in a formula.
The idea of joining sugars and natural oils for skincare started gaining traction in the late 1980s when formulators searched for mild alternatives to petroleum-derived ingredients. Mortierella oil, already valued in nutrition for its omega fatty acid content, offered a novel source of fatty acids. By reacting these fatty acids with sucrose under controlled heat and the presence of an acid or enzymatic catalyst, chemists obtained Sucrose Mortierellate, a waxy, biodegradable substance suited for topical products.
Today it shows up in a variety of leave-on and rinse-off items such as daily moisturizers, hydrating facial masks, lightweight serums, creamy body lotions, gentle facial cleansers, makeup-removing balms and even some anti-aging emulsions where a soft non-greasy finish is desired.
Sucrose Mortierellate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Sucrose Mortierellate because it can play several helpful roles in a single product
- Skin conditioning – leaves a soft smooth feel on the surface helping skin appear supple and well hydrated
- Emollient – fills in micro-gaps between skin cells creating a light protective layer that reduces water loss without heaviness
- Cleansing – its balanced oil-and-water affinity lifts away dirt excess sebum and makeup while remaining mild enough for sensitive skin
- Emulsifying – helps keep oil and water phases evenly blended so creams stay stable and pleasing in texture over their shelf life
Who Can Use Sucrose Mortierellate
Sucrose Mortierellate is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and sensitive because it is lightweight, non stripping and leaves only a thin protective layer that rarely feels greasy. Those with very acne-prone skin who react to richer fatty esters may want to monitor how their skin responds since any lipid-based ingredient can theoretically contribute to clogged pores in a small subset of users.
The ingredient is produced from sucrose and Mortierella oil, which is sourced from a fungus rather than an animal, making it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians.
No data suggest that Sucrose Mortierellate poses a special risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding when used topically in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should consult a healthcare professional before starting new skincare products just to be safe.
Sucrose Mortierellate is not known to cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more vulnerable to sunburn. Standard sun protection practices should still be followed when using any daytime skincare routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Sucrose Mortierellate differ from person to person. The following points describe potential but uncommon reactions assuming the ingredient is correctly formulated and used in normal cosmetic concentrations.
- Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to sucrose esters or mushroom derivatives
- Occasional clogged pores or breakouts in users who are extremely oil-reactive
- Transient eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any uncomfortable reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a qualified health professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5. Sucrose Mortierellate is built from lightweight sugar molecules and a mix of mostly unsaturated fatty acids found in Mortierella oil. The sugar part keeps the ester relatively water compatible while the fatty part provides softness. This balanced profile means it sits on skin more loosely than heavier waxes so it is unlikely to block pores for most users, yet its lipid content still gives it a small potential to contribute to congestion in those who are extremely breakout prone.
Overall it is generally fine for acne-prone individuals, especially in rinse-off or low-oil formulas, but very reactive skin should watch for any increase in bumps.
Because the exact fatty acid blend can vary from batch to batch some products may feel richer than others, which may slightly change how pore friendly they are.
Summary
Sucrose Mortierellate conditions skin, acts as an emollient, lifts away dirt and makeup and stabilizes oil-water mixtures. It does this by combining a water loving sugar with oil loving fatty acids so it can sit between oil and water phases, soften the skin surface and help dissolve grime without stripping moisture.
The ingredient is still relatively niche compared to classics like glycerin or shea butter but formulators who want biodegradable, plant-derived alternatives are starting to include it in gentle cleansers, lightweight creams and hybrid balm-to-milk removers.
Current data show it is safe for topical use with low irritation and low comedogenic risk for most people. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test a product containing Sucrose Mortierellate before applying it broadly, just to make sure your skin is happy.