What Is Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate?
Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate is a specialty ester made by joining sugar (sucrose) with five molecules of hydroxystearic acid, a fatty acid derived from natural fats and oils. The pairing of a water-loving sugar core with oil-friendly fatty acids creates a balanced ingredient that mixes easily with both water and oils, making it handy in skin care. Chemists first explored sugar-fat esters in the late twentieth century as a gentler alternative to petrolatum-based moisturizers, and this particular ester has gained attention over the last decade for its lightweight feel. Production involves heating sucrose and purified hydroxystearic acid together in the presence of food-grade catalysts until the fatty acids bond to the sugar. After purification the finished material is a soft wax or thick liquid that dissolves well in standard cosmetic bases. You will most often spot Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate in moisturizers, hydrating masks, soothing after-sun gels, light lotions and anti-aging serums where long-lasting but non-greasy hydration is a priority.
Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves a single key role in skin care. As a humectant it attracts water from the environment and holds it at the skin surface, helping formulas deliver instant and sustained moisture. The result is skin that feels softer and looks smoother without the heaviness some occlusive agents can cause.
Who Can Use Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate
Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate is considered friendly for most skin types. Its light texture and water-binding ability suit oily, combination, normal and dry skin. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well because it is non-acidic and free from fragrance, although anyone with a known sugar or fatty acid allergy should proceed with caution.
The ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians when the hydroxystearic acid comes from plant oils such as castor or sunflower. If you follow a strict plant-based lifestyle check that the brand confirms plant sourcing, since fatty acids can also come from animal fat.
Current safety data does not flag any issues for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should show any new skin care product to a qualified health professional before adding it to a routine.
Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended whenever you spend time outdoors.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate vary from person to person. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used at normal levels in well-formulated products.
- Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
- Temporary itching or tightness if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in users allergic to sugar derivatives or fatty acids
- Occasional clogged pores in individuals extremely prone to acne despite the low comedogenic risk
If you notice any of these issues stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate has a very low chance of blocking pores because its sugar core pulls in water while the attached fatty acids spread thinly and rinse away with regular cleansing. The molecule is larger and less greasy than straight plant oils so it does not pack tightly into pores. This low score means it is generally fine for acne-prone skin. Very sensitive or severely congested skin may still react, but most users will not see extra breakouts.
No other red flags related to pore clogging have shown up in the published safety or formulation data.
Summary
Sucrose Pentahydroxystearate is a sugar-fat ester that works as a humectant, drawing moisture from the air and holding it on the skin. Its balanced structure lets it mix smoothly with both water and oil so it boosts hydration without leaving a heavy film. Although not as famous as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, formulators appreciate its light feel which is why it quietly appears in many modern moisturizers and serums.
Current studies and practical use show it to be safe for most people with only rare irritation or allergy reports. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to do a small patch test when trying a product that contains it just to make sure your skin agrees.