What Is Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate?
Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate is an amino acid–based surfactant made by reacting glutamic acid, a natural building block of proteins, with fatty acids derived from coconut oil and then neutralizing the mixture with triethanolamine. The result is a gentle, water-soluble compound that lathers well and helps lift away dirt and excess oil.
Interest in amino acid surfactants began in the late 1980s when formulators looked for milder alternatives to harsh sulfates. Thanks to its low irritation potential and renewable plant sources, Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate quickly found a place in products designed for sensitive skin.
The manufacturing process starts with splitting coconut oil to obtain pure fatty acids. These fatty acids are linked to glutamic acid through a condensation reaction, forming cocoyl glutamic acid. Triethanolamine is then added in just the right amount to balance the pH and create the final salt, Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate.
You will spot this ingredient in facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, baby baths, micellar waters, makeup-removing cloths, sheet masks, lightweight moisturizers, anti-aging cleansers and scalp-soothing treatments, especially those marketed for delicate or dry skin and hair.
Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
When added to a formula, Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate provides several key performance benefits:
- Cleansing – Produces a soft creamy foam that lifts away impurities without stripping skin or hair, helping maintain the natural moisture barrier and leaving a smooth comfortable feel
- Hair Conditioning – Deposits a light film on the hair shaft that improves slip, reduces static and enhances softness making detangling easier and hair appear healthier
Who Can Use Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate
Because it is a mild amino acid surfactant, Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate suits nearly every skin type including sensitive, dry, normal and oily skin. Its low irritation profile makes it a helpful choice for those prone to redness or tightness after washing. It is not known to clog pores so acne-prone users can usually tolerate it as well. No specific skin type needs to avoid it unless an individual has a confirmed allergy to coconut derivatives or triethanolamine.
The ingredient is sourced from coconut oil and plant-based glutamic acid then neutralized with a synthetic amine, so it is generally considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. As always check the full product label in case the maker has added animal-derived additives elsewhere in the formula.
No research indicates that Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate is unsafe for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when used in rinse-off or leave-on products. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all personal care products with a qualified health professional to be on the safe side.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also color-safe for dyed hair because it cleans without harsh sulfates.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used properly.
- Mild skin irritation in people who are very reactive or when the cleanser is left on the skin too long
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases where an individual is allergic to coconut fatty acids or triethanolamine
- Eye stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes during use
- Tightness or dryness when used at a very high concentration or paired with other strong surfactants
If any discomfort or rash develops stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate is highly water soluble and is normally rinsed off, so it leaves little residue that could block pores. Although sourced from coconut fatty acids, the finished salt behaves more like a gentle detergent than an oil, keeping its pore-clogging potential very low.
This makes it a comfortable choice for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Only if the overall formula contains additional heavy oils or waxes might the product feel occlusive, so check the full ingredient list if clogged pores are a concern.
Summary
Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate works as a mild cleanser and light hair conditioner by combining amino acid chemistry with coconut-derived fatty acids. It loosens dirt, oil and styling residue while forming a soft foam that leaves skin and hair smooth and comfortable.
The ingredient is gaining popularity in sulfate free facial cleansers, baby baths and sensitive scalp shampoos yet it is still less common than traditional sulfates or betaines.
Overall it is considered safe with a very low irritation and comedogenic profile. Even so, it is wise to patch test any new product containing Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate so you can be sure the full formula suits your individual skin or scalp.