What Is Tea-Myristate?
Tea-Myristate, formally known as tris(2-Hydroxyethyl)ammonium myristate, is a salt formed when myristic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil and nutmeg butter, reacts with triethanolamine. The result is a soft, water-soluble compound that bridges the gap between oil and water in a formula.
Interest in fatty acid salts like Tea-Myristate picked up in the mid-20th century when formulators searched for gentle alternatives to traditional soaps. Because Tea-Myristate creates a stable mix without the harshness of pure lye soaps, it soon became a favorite in modern surfactant systems.
Production starts with plant-derived myristic acid that is purified then blended with triethanolamine under controlled heat. The reaction neutralizes the acid and yields a clear to pale yellow liquid or paste that is easy to meter into large-scale cosmetic batches.
You will most often spot Tea-Myristate in facial cleansers, micellar waters, shampoos, cream washes, lightweight lotions, sheet mask essences and two-phase makeup removers. Wherever a brand wants a mild cleanse or a smooth oil-in-water texture, Tea-Myristate is a reliable go-to.
Tea-Myristate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulations Tea-Myristate pulls double duty, making products both pleasant to use and effective.
- Cleansing: As a mild surfactant Tea-Myristate loosens dirt, excess oil and makeup so they rinse away with water. It provides gentle foam and leaves skin feeling clean yet comfortable
- Emulsifying: By bonding oil and water phases it keeps creams, lotions and cleansers from separating. This stability means a smoother texture, consistent performance and a longer shelf life
Who Can Use Tea-Myristate
Thanks to its mild nature Tea-Myristate suits most skin types including normal, oily, combination and sensitive skin. Very dry skin could feel a bit tight if a formula relies on Tea-Myristate as the primary cleanser without added emollients, so those users may prefer products where it is paired with richer oils or humectants.
The myristic acid used to make Tea-Myristate is typically sourced from coconut or other plant oils, which means the finished ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. If a brand chooses an animal-derived source it must be stated on the label, though this is uncommon in modern manufacturing.
Current cosmetic safety assessments show no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding individuals when Tea-Myristate is used at standard concentrations. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any product past a qualified healthcare professional just to be safe.
Tea-Myristate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with common actives like retinoids or acids, so daily routines rarely need adjustment when it is present.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Tea-Myristate differ from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects that can occur even though most users experience none of them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Transient stinging or redness on very sensitive skin
- Mild dryness or tightness if used in high-foaming cleansers without added moisturizers
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to triethanolamine derivatives
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes before rinsing
If you experience any of these effects stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5
Tea-Myristate is derived from myristic acid, a fatty acid that can be pore clogging in its pure form, yet the neutralization with triethanolamine drastically lowers its tendency to build up in follicles. In most rinse-off cleansers or lightweight emulsions it disperses easily in water and is removed before it has a chance to sit in pores, keeping the clogging risk on the low side.
Because of this low rating, Tea-Myristate is generally considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, especially in products that are rinsed away. In rich leave-on creams the risk rises slightly, so users who are highly sensitive to fatty acids may still prefer to keep an eye on how their skin reacts.
Formulation style matters: high concentrations in occlusive bases increase the chance of congestion while balanced, water-heavy formulas keep the risk minimal.
Summary
Tea-Myristate is a workhorse surfactant that cleanses by lifting away oil and dirt, then doubles as an emulsifier that locks water and oil together for a smooth stable texture. It does this by combining the oil-friendly tail of myristic acid with the water-loving head of triethanolamine, giving formulators a reliable bridge between the two phases.
While not the flashiest ingredient on labels, it remains a quiet favorite in gentle cleansers, micellar waters and light lotions because it delivers mild cleansing without stripping. Newer bio-based surfactants have stolen some spotlight yet Tea-Myristate continues to hold steady thanks to its proven track record and cost efficiency.
Safety assessments rate it as low risk at normal use levels, with irritation or allergy being uncommon and usually mild. As with any cosmetic ingredient it is smart to do a quick patch test when trying a new product just to be sure your skin agrees.