What Is Tea-Undecylenate?
Tea-Undecylenate is a salt made when undec-10-enoic acid, a fatty acid that occurs naturally in castor oil, is combined with triethanolamine, a liquid derived from plant sugars. Joining the two creates a stable compound that dissolves easily in water and mixes well with oils, making it handy for skincare formulas. Chemists first explored this pairing in the mid-20th century while looking for mild yet effective ways to keep creams fresh without harsh alcohols. Today the ingredient is produced in modern labs through a controlled reaction where purified undecylenic acid is slowly blended with pharmaceutical-grade triethanolamine under gentle heat, then filtered and dried to form a fine powder.
Because it fights spoilage and lifts away dirt, Tea-Undecylenate often shows up in lightweight facial cleansers, clarifying masks, leave-on toners, scalp treatments and even some body lotions that aim to stay fresh without strong synthetic preservatives.
Tea-Undecylenate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In a formula Tea-Undecylenate serves more than one purpose, helping both the product and the skin.
- Preservative: Discourages the growth of bacteria and fungi so creams, gels and liquids last longer on the shelf and stay safe once opened
- Cleansing: Helps loosen oil, sweat and product buildup so they rinse away easily leaving skin or hair feeling fresh but not stripped
Who Can Use Tea-Undecylenate
Tea-Undecylenate is generally well suited for normal, oily and combination skin since it helps keep formulas fresh while giving a light cleansing boost that will not leave a heavy film. Dry or very sensitive complexions can usually tolerate it too although formulas that rely on the ingredient for its mild cleansing action might feel a bit drying if other moisturizers are not included. People with an impaired skin barrier or active eczema should check with a professional before choosing products that contain any cleansing agents.
The compound is made from castor oil–derived undecylenic acid and plant-based triethanolamine so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly with no animal-derived inputs or animal testing required for its manufacture.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women because the ingredient sits on the surface of the skin and has very low absorption potential. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should show the full product list to a doctor to ensure personal safety.
Tea-Undecylenate does not cause photosensitivity and can be used morning or night without increasing the risk of sunburn. It also plays well with most other common skincare ingredients including acids antioxidants and retinoids.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Tea-Undecylenate vary from person to person. The points below cover potential side effects but they are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or tingling
- Dry or tight feeling if used in a formula that lacks enough moisturizers
- Rare contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to amine or fatty acid salts
- Eye stinging or watering if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Very uncommon allergic reaction involving itching or hives
If any of these effects occur stop use immediately and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Tea-Undecylenate is mostly water soluble thanks to its triethanolamine portion so it rinses off the skin instead of lingering in pores. The undecylenic acid half is a short-chain fatty acid that offers antimicrobial action without the heavy, waxy texture linked to pore clogging oils. Together these traits give it a very low chance of triggering blackheads or pimples.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in the vast majority of cases.
Because the ingredient often appears at low levels purely for preservation it rarely builds up on the skin over time, a factor that further reduces comedogenic risk.
Summary
Tea-Undecylenate works as a gentle preservative and light cleansing agent. The undecylenic acid portion disrupts bacteria and fungi while the triethanolamine part increases water solubility so the compound can lift away oils and dirt when rinsed. This dual action helps formulas stay fresh and the skin feel clean without harshness.
The ingredient is not a household name, showing up mainly in niche cleansers, toners and scalp treatments rather than blockbuster products, but formulators who use it appreciate its mildness and vegan origin.
Overall safety is considered high with low irritation and minimal comedogenic potential. As with any new skincare item, perform a quick patch test before full use to make sure your individual skin agrees with the product.