What Is Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12?
Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab crafted version of a short chain of two amino acids known as Dipeptide-12 that has been modified with four carboxymethyl groups. These added groups make the molecule more water friendly, helping it pull in and hold moisture. The ingredient was first explored by peptide researchers looking to improve skin hydration in the early 2000s, and it soon caught the attention of cosmetic chemists who wanted a gentler alternative to heavier humectants like glycerin.
Production starts with the base dipeptide, usually made through safe food grade fermentation or solid phase synthesis. Chemists then attach carboxymethyl groups in a controlled reaction, purify the result, and dry it into a fine powder that dissolves easily in water based skin care.
Today you’ll find Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 in lightweight moisturizers, hydrating serums, sheet masks, under eye gels, soothing after-sun lotions and many anti-aging blends that aim to plump and smooth without leaving a sticky feel.
Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This peptide’s main claim to fame is its strong water binding ability, which can give skin a fresher, more supple look.
- Humectant: Acts like a moisture magnet, drawing water from the atmosphere and the deeper layers of skin to the surface. This surge of hydration helps soften fine lines, supports a healthy skin barrier, and boosts the spreadability of the overall formula so products glide on smoothly without heaviness.
Who Can Use Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
This lightweight humectant is generally suitable for all skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit from its moisture-binding ability, oily or acne-prone skin appreciate the non-greasy feel, and sensitive skin tends to tolerate the small peptide structure well. Only individuals with a known allergy to peptides or carboxymethyl derivatives may need to avoid it.
Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is produced through fermentation or synthetic chemistry without animal-derived materials, making it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. If you follow a strict cruelty-free lifestyle, verify that the finished product and brand are certified accordingly.
No data indicate that this ingredient poses specific risks during pregnancy or breastfeeding when used topically, as its large molecular size limits skin penetration. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run new skincare products past a physician to be safe.
The peptide does not cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Routine daytime sunscreen use is still recommended for overall skin health.
Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is water soluble, plays nicely with most actives and preservatives, and is stable across the typical cosmetic pH range, making it easy to slot into almost any routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 vary from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects, yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild redness or irritation in very sensitive skin, especially if applied to broken or compromised areas
- Temporary stinging on application when layered immediately after exfoliating acids or retinoids
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with a specific peptide or carboxymethyl sensitivity
- Formula instability-related pilling if combined with highly cationic ingredients, leading to minor surface flaking rather than a true skin reaction
If you experience persistent discomfort, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 – 1 (non-comedogenic to very low)
Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a small water-soluble peptide that readily rinses away and does not leave an oily film on the skin. It lacks fatty acids or heavy waxes that tend to clog pores, so the chance of it blocking follicles is minimal. For this reason, products using the ingredient at typical levels of 0.1-2 percent earn a 0 to 1 on the comedogenic scale.
Suitable for those prone to acne or breakouts.
Because the peptide is most often paired with light gel or serum textures, the finished formula is also unlikely to feel occlusive. If a product containing it does trigger congestion, the culprit is usually another richer component in the blend rather than the peptide itself.
Summary
Tetracarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab-tailored humectant that draws and holds water at the skin’s surface, giving a plumper smoother appearance without heaviness. Its four carboxymethyl groups boost water affinity, letting it hydrate efficiently even at low use levels. Although not yet a household name, the peptide is quietly gaining popularity in modern lightweight moisturizers and hydration serums that target consumers who want fast-absorbing formulas.
Current evidence shows it to be gentle, non-sensitizing and unlikely to clog pores, making it safe for daily use across most skin types. As with any new skincare ingredient, perform a patch test when trying products that contain it to confirm personal tolerance.