What Is Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate?
Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate is a plant-derived ester made by combining citric acid with medium-chain fatty alcohols that contain 12 to 13 carbon atoms. Citric acid is the same natural acid found in citrus fruit, while the fatty alcohols usually come from coconut or palm kernel oil. When these raw materials react, they form a lightweight, oil-like liquid that feels silky on the skin.
The cosmetic industry started exploring citric acid esters in the late 20th century as brands searched for alternatives to heavier mineral oils. Chemists found that attaching mid-length fatty chains to citric acid produced an emollient that spread easily, absorbed quickly and left less greasy residue. Over time Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate became popular in modern formulations because it could soften skin without clogging pores.
Manufacturing involves esterification. First the plant oils are split to isolate the C12-13 fatty alcohols. These alcohols are then heated with citric acid in the presence of a catalyst until water is removed and stable ester bonds form. The mixture is purified, yielding a clear or pale yellow liquid ready for use in cosmetics.
You will most often see Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate in moisturizers, facial serums, body lotions, hand creams, lip balms, sunscreens, color cosmetics like foundations and BB creams and rinse-off products such as cleansers and masks. Its gentle nature suits daily care items aimed at boosting softness and comfort.
Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings a few key perks to skincare and makeup formulas
- Skin conditioning: Helps keep the outer layer supple and smooth by forming a light protective film that reduces moisture loss. This results in softer skin that feels comfortable throughout the day
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps between skin cells creating a velvety finish. It improves spreadability of creams and enhances the luxurious glide of makeup products which can make application easier and more even
Who Can Use Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate
This light silky ester suits virtually every skin type. Dry skin benefits from its emollient cushioning while normal and combination skin enjoy the quick absorption that leaves no heavy residue. Even oily or breakout-prone skin can usually tolerate it because the mid-length fatty chains are less likely to block pores compared with longer waxy oils. There are no known concerns for sensitive skin although anyone with a history of fragrance or plant-oil allergies should still read full ingredient lists to make sure no other trigger is present.
Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate is sourced from citric acid and plant-based fatty alcohols so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived raw materials or by-products are involved in its production.
The ester is considered safe for use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding based on its low absorption and clean safety profile. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any skincare routine with a qualified healthcare provider just to be safe.
The molecule does not increase photosensitivity so you do not have to worry about extra sun sensitivity when using it during the day. It is also stable across a broad pH range and works well alongside common active ingredients like niacinamide retinol and AHAs without known incompatibilities.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential issues only. When the ingredient is properly formulated most users will not experience any problems.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness or stinging is possible though rare
- Allergic contact dermatitis may occur in individuals sensitive to citric acid derivatives or plant fatty alcohols
- Eye irritation can happen if a product containing the ester migrates into the eyes
- Breakout flare-up is unlikely but could arise in extremely acne-prone users when the ingredient is combined with highly occlusive bases
If any unwanted reaction develops stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Lab and industry data place Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate at the low end of the comedogenic scale. Its mid-length fatty chains absorb quickly and leave little residue so they rarely trap dead skin or sebum in pores. The molecule is also less sticky than heavier plant oils which further reduces the risk of clogged follicles. Because of this low score most acne-prone users find it suitable, though results can vary from person to person. If a breakout does occur it is more likely due to other richer ingredients in the formula rather than this ester itself.
Summary
Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate works mainly as a skin-conditioning emollient. It slips between surface cells to smooth rough spots, forms a light film that slows water loss and improves the spread of creams and makeup for a soft velvety feel. Thanks to these qualities it shows up in moisturizers, lip balms, sunscreens and even foundation although it is not as famous as classics like glycerin or squalane.
Safety testing and long use in cosmetics have shown the ingredient to be gentle with very low risk of irritation or pore blockage. Still every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product containing Tri-C12-13 Alkyl Citrate before applying it all over your face or body.