Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract?

Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract comes from the stems of Zizania latifolia, a water plant related to wild rice, that have been fermented with the friendly fungus Ustilago esculenta. During fermentation the fungus breaks down the plant matter and releases a mix of skin-loving sugars, amino acids, vitamins and antioxidants that end up in the final liquid extract. The unusual pairing of plant and fungus has been part of East Asian agriculture for centuries where the swollen, fungus-infected stems are eaten as a delicacy. In recent years cosmetic chemists noticed the smooth, hydrated feel the fermented stem left on skin and began adapting the traditional process for beauty products. To make the ingredient, cleaned stems are chopped, inoculated with the fungus then left to ferment in controlled tanks. After several days the mixture is filtered and the clear, water-based extract is carefully preserved for use in formulas.

You will most often spot this extract in hydrating toners, calming serums, sheet masks, lightweight moisturizers and anti-aging creams that promise a fresh dewy finish. It also appears in after-sun gels and soothing treatments aimed at reducing dryness or tightness.

Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fermented stem extract is included in skincare for one main reason: skin conditioning. It helps replenish moisture, smooth rough spots and leave the surface feeling soft and supple. The naturally occurring sugars and amino acids act like tiny water magnets that draw hydration into the upper layers of skin while antioxidants from the plant protect against daily environmental stress. Together these actions support a healthy skin barrier, improve texture and give the complexion a comfortable, well-nourished look.

Who Can Use Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract

This fermented plant extract is generally friendly to all skin types. Dry and mature skin tend to see the most benefit thanks to its water-binding sugars that top up moisture levels, while its light watery texture means oily and combination skin can enjoy it without feeling greasy. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the fermentation process breaks large plant molecules into smaller, gentler ones, though anyone with a known rice or fungus allergy should proceed carefully.

The ingredient is derived solely from a plant stem and a naturally occurring fungus, with no animal by-products involved, so it fits vegan and vegetarian preferences.

No data suggest that the extract poses a special risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when used in cosmetic amounts. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should have a quick chat with their doctor before adding new skincare to their routine just to be safe.

Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract is not known to increase photosensitivity and can be used in morning or evening products without added sun risk. As with all skincare, pair daytime use with a broad-spectrum sunscreen for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical use of Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or itching in those with a rice or mushroom allergy
  • Temporary stinging if applied on freshly exfoliated or broken skin
  • Rare clogging or breakouts in extremely acne-prone skin when paired with heavy occlusive ingredients in the same formula

If any irritation, swelling or prolonged discomfort occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0–1. Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract is a light water based liquid that contains virtually no oils or waxes so it has little chance of blocking pores. Fermentation further breaks the plant material into small water loving molecules that sit on the skin surface without forming a heavy film. For these reasons it is generally considered non-comedogenic and is well suited to those prone to acne or congestion. As always overall pore friendliness depends on the full product formula; if the extract is blended with rich butters or occlusive silicones the end result could still be comedogenic.

Summary

Ustilago Esculenta/Zizania Latifolia Stem Ferment Extract is used in skincare for its skin conditioning talent. The fermentation process unlocks natural sugars amino acids and antioxidants that pull in moisture support the skin barrier protect against daily aggressors and leave the surface feeling smooth and calm. While not as mainstream as hyaluronic acid or niacinamide it is steadily gaining fans in K-beauty inspired toners serums and masks thanks to its fresh dewy finish and gentle profile.

Current research and real world use point to a high level of safety with only rare reactions in people sensitive to rice or fungi. Still every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this ingredient before full-face use.

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