Hickap may not yet be a household name on every vanity, yet the indie Swedish label has quietly built a reputation for clever formulations that punch above their price. Having enjoyed a handful of its gentle cleansers in the past, I was keen to see whether its latest release could live up to the buzz.
The moniker “Pore Refining Detox Mud Mask” is as literal as it is lengthy, promising a spa level reset in just ten minutes. According to Hickap, this creamy kaolin and charcoal blend should whisk away trapped debris, temper excess oil and leave skin looking clear, smooth and radiant, all while playing nicely with every skin type.
I spent a full two weeks slotting the mask into my routine twice weekly to find out if those claims translate from press release to bathroom mirror, and just how well it earns a place in your skin care budget.
What is Pore Refining Detox Mud Mask?
This is a wash-off mud mask designed for once or twice-weekly use after cleansing. Wash-off masks are applied, left to sit for a short period then removed with water, giving ingredients a limited but concentrated window to work without staying on the skin overnight. They suit people who want a targeted boost without altering their everyday routine.
Hickap’s formula pairs absorbent clays with chemical exfoliation. Kaolin draws out surface oil while charcoal powder targets debris deeper in the pore. A low dose of salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid known for its ability to break down sebum inside the pore lining, supports gentle exfoliation. Soothing agents like allantoin and glycerin aim to offset dryness, helping the mask stay suitable for most skin types, especially those prone to midday shine.
The brand positions it as a quick reset that leaves skin clearer, smoother and more balanced after a 10-15 minute treatment. At 100 ml the volume is generous enough for several months of the recommended once or twice weekly schedule.
Did it work?
In the name of very serious science I benched my usual wash off mask for three whole days before starting, convinced this would give me baseline skin worthy of a lab coat. Fourteen days and four applications later feels like a fair window to see what this mud can really do.
I applied a finger thick layer on Sunday and Wednesday evenings, letting it sit the full 15 minutes while I answered emails I should have dealt with earlier. The first rinse left my cheeks feeling almost squeaky, but not tight, and there was a definite matte finish that lasted until the next morning. By the second use the mid afternoon shine on my T zone dialed down a notch, yet I noticed a faint dry patch hugging the sides of my nostrils that needed extra moisturizer.
Week two told a similar story. Immediate gratification came in the form of baby smooth skin each time I washed the mask away, and makeup glided on with fewer cranky clumps around my nose. Still, the promised pore shrinkage remained modest. My more stubborn blackheads looked slightly lighter but refused to vacate entirely, and the mask never fully prevented new congestion along my chin despite the salicylic acid assist.
Overall the formula lives up to its detox pitch in the short term, soaking up excess oil and polishing rough spots without the sting many clay blends bring. It stops just shy of transformational though, and the minor dryness means I will keep searching for my personal holy grail. That said, if you crave a quick reset before a big night out this is a pleasant and reliable option that plays nicely with sensitive souls.
Main ingredients explained
The star of the show is kaolin, a gentle clay that works like a sponge to pull excess sebum and surface grime out of pores without the tight, parched feeling bentonite formulas sometimes leave behind. Charcoal powder backs it up by trapping impurities in its porous structure so they rinse away instead of redistributing across your face. Together these two do the heavy lifting on the instant matte finish everyone notices after the first use.
Salicylic acid sits at a mild concentration and is oil soluble, meaning it can wiggle its way inside the pore lining to dissolve the mix of oil and dead cells that creates blackheads. Because the mask is only on for fifteen minutes the risk of irritation is low, but sensitive users should still patch test since BHA can tingle.
Glycerin, a classic humectant, and sodium lactate pull water into the upper layers of skin so the clays do not leave you flaky. Allantoin adds a soothing, barrier friendly touch, especially helpful if you already use stronger actives elsewhere in your routine.
The emollient base includes caprylic/capric triglyceride, C10-18 triglycerides and cetyl alcohol. These keep the texture creamy and help the mask glide on evenly. They have low to moderate comedogenic ratings which means they can clog pores in some acne prone skins if left on for long periods, although the rinse-off format minimises that risk.
Tocopherol (vitamin E), beta-sitosterol and plant derived squalene serve as antioxidants and light moisturisers. The squalene is sourced from plants, not shark liver, so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian preferences. In fact the entire INCI reads animal free, yet strict vegans should confirm processing aids with the brand if that detail is critical.
Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin act as preservatives, keeping the formula stable without added fragrance. There is also a dash of t-butyl alcohol that helps the texture stay airy but is present at a very low level.
Finally, a pregnancy note: topical salicylic acid at the low strength found here is generally considered low risk, but consensus guidelines still advise pregnant or nursing users to clear any BHA product with their healthcare provider first.
No ingredient leaps out as a major irritant and the pH sits comfortably in the skin friendly range, so most people will find this an uncomplicated addition to a twice weekly routine.
What I liked/didn’t like
Here is the quick summary after four uses.
What works well:
- Creamy texture spreads easily and rinses without leaving a stubborn grey film
- Instantly mattifies the T zone yet avoids that tight post-mask feel thanks to the added humectants
- Fragrance free formula keeps the risk of sensitisation low
- Generous volume makes the cost per use reasonable
What to consider:
- Pore size looks only slightly reduced so results may not wow seasoned clay mask users
- Can highlight dry patches around the nose if you skip a richer moisturiser afterward
- Salicylic acid sits at a mild level that might not fully tackle persistent blackheads or hormonal breakouts
My final thoughts
After four rounds with Pore Refining Detox Mud Mask I can confirm it is a solid performer, if not quite the complexion-changing miracle its name hints at. The 7/10 score reflects a product that reliably decongests and mattifies without upsetting my skin barrier yet stops short of delivering dramatic pore minimisation. It is best suited to combination or oily skin that flirts with midday shine more than chronic breakouts. Drier types can still enjoy it provided they follow with a richer moisturiser, while anyone expecting blackhead eviction on a grand scale might want a formula with a heftier acid percentage.
Would I recommend it to a friend? Yes, with context. If their main objective is a quick reset before an event or they need a gentle clay option that plays nicely alongside stronger nightly actives, I would happily steer them toward Hickap. If they are on a mission to banish deep-seated congestion I would suggest pairing it with a leave-on BHA for maintenance.
Because finding the right wash-off mask can feel like speed dating for your pores, it is worth knowing a few worthy alternatives. Deascal’s Pink Clay Glow Mask is my favourite all-rounder: it exfoliates, clears and brightens in one tidy step and performs impressively across every skin type at a wallet-friendly price. Those craving stronger oil control might prefer Kiehl’s Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Masque, while Innisfree’s Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask delivers similar smoothing results with a satisfying cooling finish. If budget is top priority The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Masque offers a punchier BHA dose that tackles stubborn blackheads without straining the purse. I have used each of these enough times to vouch for their credentials and the choice really comes down to how intense you like your weekly purging session to be.
Important housekeeping before you slather anything on: always patch test new formulas on a small area first, keep expectations realistic and remember that the freshly polished look any clay mask provides fades if you abandon consistent use. Sorry to sound like an over-protective parent but your future self will thank you.