Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone?

Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone is a lab crafted derivative of prasterone, better known as DHEA, a hormone naturally present in the body. Chemists modify the parent molecule by attaching an acetyl group at the 3 position and a benzoyloxy group at the 7 position, creating a more stable and lipid loving compound that sits comfortably in cosmetic formulas. The process starts with pharmaceutical grade prasterone, which undergoes controlled esterification steps using acetic anhydride and benzoyl chloride before purification and microfiltration. First studied in the late 1990s as a gentler alternative to direct DHEA use, it gained attention from skin care brands for its solid shelf life and skin friendly profile. Today you will spot Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone in age defying serums, rich night creams, revitalizing masks, targeted eye treatments, brightening concentrates, even a few high performance body lotions.

Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multi talented ingredient brings two primary perks to a formula

  • Antioxidant – helps neutralize free radicals created by UV light or pollution, which can otherwise speed up the look of fine lines and uneven tone. By scavenging these unstable molecules it supports a calmer, more resilient complexion
  • Skin conditioning – improves the feel and appearance of skin by adding a light veil of softness and suppleness. Regular use can leave the surface smoother and better hydrated, boosting the overall sensory experience of a product

Who Can Use Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone

This ingredient plays nicely with most skin types, especially normal, dry and mature skin that crave extra conditioning. Combination skin usually tolerates it well when used in lightweight formulas. Those with very oily or acne prone skin may prefer lower concentrations because its lipid loving nature can feel too rich and might contribute to a heavier finish.

Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone is typically produced from plant derived precursors or fully synthetic processes rather than animal sources, making it a suitable choice for vegans and vegetarians. If a strict lifestyle is important, check with the brand to confirm its supply chain.

Because this molecule is a modified form of a natural hormone, expectant or nursing mothers often wonder about safety. Current topical data shows minimal systemic absorption, but studies are limited. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should run the product past a qualified doctor before use to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase sensitivity to sunlight and can be used morning or night without special UV precautions beyond a regular broad-spectrum sunscreen. It is fragrance free and generally non reactive, making it a flexible add-on in most routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone differ from person to person. The points below outline potential issues, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild redness or warmth shortly after application
  • Transient stinging on sensitive or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Extra oiliness or clogged pores in very oily or congestion prone users
  • Breakouts in individuals who are highly sensitive to hormone like compounds
  • Allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching swelling or rash
  • Heightened irritation if layered with strong acids retinoids or other potent actives

If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and seek guidance from a dermatologist or healthcare provider.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2/5

Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone is an esterified steroid that brings a lightweight, oily slip to formulas. Its lipid loving nature can sit on the skin longer than water based ingredients, so it carries a mild chance of settling into pores and mingling with sebum. That puts it above truly non-comedogenic actives yet far below heavy butters or thick silicones that are well known pore blockers.

Suitable for those prone to acne or breakouts when used in low to moderate concentrations especially within gel-cream or lotion textures. Very oily skin types may prefer to limit use or reserve it for nighttime.

Formulation style matters: pairing this ingredient with non-occlusive emulsifiers and keeping overall oil phase light can further reduce clogging risk.

Summary

Acetyl Benzoyloxy Prasterone serves mainly as an antioxidant that sweeps up free radicals and as a skin conditioning agent that leaves the surface softer and more supple. The acetyl and benzoyloxy groups make the molecule both stable and compatible with skin lipids so it can sit on the surface long enough to neutralize oxidative stress and reinforce the skin’s comfort.

It is still a niche ingredient, spotted in select premium serums and overnight creams rather than mass market lines, but interest is growing among formulators looking for fresh alternatives to classic antioxidants.

Overall safety data looks favorable with low irritation reports and minimal systemic absorption. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to perform a simple patch test before full-face use to check personal tolerance.

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