Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine?

Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine is a lab crafted peptide that blends parts of two naturally occurring amino acids, citrulline and arginine, with an acetyl group that helps the molecule stay stable in a water based formula. On paper its full chemical name is 2-(2-Acetamido-5-ureidopentanoylamino-5-guanidinopentanoic acid), but in everyday cosmetic talk it is simply called a skin protecting peptide. The ingredient was first explored by Japanese and European formulators in the early 2000s who wanted a gentle alternative to traditional barrier boosters like mineral oils. By attaching an acetyl group and linking the two amino acids, chemists created a small molecule that could sit on the skin surface, support the natural acid mantle and resist being washed off too quickly. Production happens entirely in stainless-steel reactors where plant derived sugars are fermented to yield citrulline and arginine, followed by a series of enzymatic and chemical coupling steps that connect the fragments in a set sequence. Because the whole process is done in closed systems, the final powder is very pure and vegan friendly. Today you will see Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine in hydrating serums, soothing moisturizers, revitalizing sheet masks, after-sun lotions and many leave-on anti-aging creams that promise a stronger skin barrier.

Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas this peptide serves one main purpose, yet that single role can have several knock-on benefits for the skin

Skin protecting — By forming a light semi-occlusive film, Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine helps reduce water loss, buffers the skin against everyday irritants like pollution particles and supports a healthy pH. The result is skin that feels less tight, looks smoother and shows fewer signs of redness or flaking, making the ingredient especially useful in products aimed at sensitive or compromised complexions.

Who Can Use Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine

This peptide is considered friendly for nearly all skin types. Dry, sensitive and mature skin often see the most benefit because the light film it creates helps hold on to moisture without the greasy feel that can bother oily or acne prone complexions. Its low molecular weight and non occlusive nature mean it rarely clogs pores so combination and oily skin can also use it comfortably. There are no known reasons for extremely reactive or medically compromised skin to avoid it, yet anyone with a history of amino acid allergies should stay cautious.

Because the ingredient is made entirely through plant based fermentation and synthetic coupling steps it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by products or animal testing are involved in its standard supply chain.

Current safety data show no reproductive or developmental warnings linked to topical use. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals are generally considered safe to use products containing Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine, but this is not medical advice and they should still ask their doctor before adding anything new to their routine.

The molecule does not absorb UV light so it does not cause photosensitivity. It also plays well with common actives like niacinamide, ceramides and low level acids, making it easy to slot into most routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that have been reported in rare cases. When used in a well formulated product most people will not experience these issues.

  • Mild stinging or warmth upon application
  • Transient redness that fades within minutes
  • Itching or tightness if layered with very high concentration acids
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to peptides or amino acids
  • Breakouts if the finished product also contains heavy oils that do not suit acne prone skin

If you notice any persistent irritation discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0-1 out of 5. Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine is a small water soluble peptide that creates only a whisper thin breathable film and contains no fatty chains or waxy residues that typically block pores. It is used at low levels and rinses cleanly, so the chance of clogging is viewed as extremely low.

This makes it well suited for people who are prone to acne or regular breakouts.

If blemishes appear while using a product with this peptide the culprit is more likely heavier oils or butters in the same formula, not Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine itself.

Summary

Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine is a barrier loving peptide that supports the skin’s acid mantle, curbs moisture loss and softens irritation by forming a lightweight protective veil. Its water friendly structure lets it deliver these perks without leaving a greasy feel.

Although it has not reached the household status of ingredients like vitamin C or niacinamide its use is on the rise in hydrating serums, recovery creams and after sun lotions aimed at sensitive or moisture depleted skin.

The safety profile is strong with no major red flags reported. Still, every complexion is unique so doing a quick patch test before fully committing to any product containing this ingredient is the safest approach.

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