What Is Acetyl Triethyl Citrate?
Acetyl Triethyl Citrate is an ester derived from citric acid, the naturally occurring acid found in citrus fruits. Commercially, citric acid is usually produced by fermenting sugar from corn or sugar beets, then reacted with ethanol to form triethyl citrate, which is further acetylated with acetic anhydride to give Acetyl Triethyl Citrate. The resulting molecule is clear, oil-like and mildly fruity, making it useful in many personal care formulas.
The ingredient first appeared in the mid-20th century as a food additive and pharmaceutical plasticiser, valued for its ability to soften coatings. Cosmetics soon adopted it for similar reasons, especially in nail polishes and hair sprays that needed flexible yet durable films. Today you will spot Acetyl Triethyl Citrate in a wide range of products such as setting sprays, long-wear foundations, lipsticks, deodorants, perfumes, leave-in hair treatments, sheet masks and even some sunscreen formulations.
Acetyl Triethyl Citrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Acetyl Triethyl Citrate because it can do several jobs at once, helping products look, feel and smell better.
- Film forming: Creates a thin flexible layer on skin, hair or nails that locks in ingredients, boosts water resistance and extends the wear time of makeup and hair styling products
- Fragrance/Perfuming: Contributes a light citrus note and acts as a carrier that helps other aromatic compounds disperse evenly, resulting in a balanced scent that lasts longer
- Plasticiser: Softens and stabilises polymer networks in products like nail polish or mascara so they dry without cracking, peel less and feel comfortable during wear
Who Can Use Acetyl Triethyl Citrate
Acetyl Triethyl Citrate is generally well tolerated by all skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive skin because it is non-occlusive and lightweight. Those with extremely sensitive or allergy-prone skin should still review full ingredient lists, but this ester itself rarely causes irritation.
The compound is made from plant-derived citric acid and ethanol, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-based raw materials or by-products are involved in its standard manufacturing process.
Current research shows no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Acetyl Triethyl Citrate is used topically at the levels found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new products to a routine.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. As always, daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.
Because it has a subtle fruity scent, anyone with fragrance allergies should note its presence in the formula, though its aroma is mild compared with traditional perfumes.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Acetyl Triethyl Citrate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects that could occur, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at cosmetic concentrations and produced under good manufacturing practices.
- Mild skin irritation
- Temporary redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitised to citrates or fragrances
- Eye irritation if the product is misapplied too close to the lash line
If any of these reactions occur, discontinue use immediately and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Acetyl Triethyl Citrate is a small, lightweight ester that sits on the surface to form flexible films without leaving a heavy oily residue. It does not clog pores in published studies or user reports, earning it a very low comedogenic score. Because it is mainly used at low percentages to soften polymers rather than as a primary emollient, the risk of pore blockage remains minimal.
Most people prone to acne or breakouts should find this ingredient acceptable, especially when used in rinse-off or lightweight leave-on formulas.
Its overall impact on pore clogging can be influenced by the rest of the formula, so pay attention to richer oils or waxes that may be included alongside it.
Summary
Acetyl Triethyl Citrate acts as a film former, fragrance ingredient and plasticiser. It spreads easily then evaporates just enough to leave a thin flexible layer that boosts the staying power of makeup, keeps hair styles intact and helps nail polish resist cracking. The mild citrus aroma adds a soft top note and also helps dissolve and evenly distribute other scent molecules.
While not as famous as silicones or classic humectants, this ester enjoys steady popularity in long-wear cosmetics, deodorants and nail products because it quietly improves performance without altering texture or weight.
Safety data show it is generally non-irritating, non-sensitising and low risk when used at the concentrations found in cosmetics. Still, skin is individual so perform a quick patch test when trying any new product that contains Acetyl Triethyl Citrate just to be sure it plays nicely with your skin.