Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer?

Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer is a man-made polymer created by linking dimethyl itaconate with acrylic or methacrylic building blocks that are further joined using trimethylolpropane triacrylate. The result is a large, three-dimensional network that swells in water and helps thicken or stabilize formulas. Developed as part of the push for more versatile texture enhancers in the late twentieth century, this ingredient quickly gained popularity because it delivers a smooth, non-sticky feel at low use levels and can handle a wide pH range.

Manufacturing starts with liquid monomers that are combined in a reactor and triggered to polymerize through a free-radical process. Once the reaction is complete, the gel-like mass is dried and milled into a fine powder or supplied as a pre-neutralized dispersion, ready for formulators to hydrate and activate.

You will find Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer in light facial moisturizers, sheet masks, peel-off masks, anti-aging serums, sunscreen lotions, clarifying gels, hair styling creams, color-cosmetic bases and even some micellar waters where a clean, weightless texture is key.

Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This polymer’s value lies in how it manages the feel and stability of a product.

As a viscosity-controlling agent it thickens water-based mixtures so they stay uniform, suspend pigments or exfoliating beads evenly, resist separating during storage, spread smoothly on skin and leave a light, fresh finish without greasiness or tackiness.

Who Can Use Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer

This polymer is considered gentle and generally suits all skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive. Its lightweight water-binding nature offers slip without clogging pores which makes it a good fit for acne-prone or reactive complexions as well.

The ingredient is fully synthetic and contains no animal derivatives so it is acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. It can also be sourced from suppliers that follow cruelty-free practices.

Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding people when the polymer is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics at typical levels. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare choice past a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.

Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer does not absorb UV light and does not make skin more sensitive to the sun. It is odorless non-volatile and does not interfere with most active ingredients so it can be layered easily in a routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

The way an individual reacts to topical Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer can vary. The following list covers potential side effects yet these outcomes are uncommon when the ingredient is correctly formulated in a finished product.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis linked to residual monomers
  • Transient eye irritation if the raw powder is inhaled or if the formula runs into the eyes
  • Dry or tight feeling when used in high concentrations without enough humectants

If any adverse reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0

Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer is a high-molecular-weight, water-swelling polymer that sits on skin’s surface without penetrating pores or leaving an oily film. Because it is not an oil or fatty acid and has no occlusive character it does not create the kind of environment that traps sebum or debris, earning it a 0 on the comedogenic scale.

Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin types.

Since the ingredient is typically used at low levels and does not interact with sebum chemistry there are no special comedogenic concerns even in hot or humid climates.

Summary

Acrylates/Dimethyl Itaconate Crosspolymer works primarily as a viscosity controller. By swelling in water and forming a flexible network it thickens formulas, stabilizes suspended particles and delivers a smooth light feel. This efficiency at low doses has made it popular in modern gels, serums, sunscreens and makeup where a clean non-sticky texture is prized.

Regulatory reviews and current literature show it to be safe for cosmetic use with very low irritation or allergy rates. As with any new skincare product a quick patch test is wise to rule out personal sensitivity.

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