What Is Adipic Acid/Dilinoleic Acid/Hexylene Glycol Copolymer?
Adipic Acid/Dilinoleic Acid/Hexylene Glycol Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by linking together adipic acid (also called hexanedioic acid), the dimer of linoleic acid sourced from vegetable oils, and hexylene glycol. The result is a large, flexible molecule that forms a lightweight film when applied to skin or hair. First explored in the late 1990s as chemists searched for longer-lasting makeup, it quickly found a niche in color cosmetics thanks to its ability to improve wear without a heavy feel. Production involves controlled polymerization: the three building blocks are heated with a catalyst so their reactive ends join, forming a stable chain that cools into a solid resin ready for use. Today you will spot this copolymer in long-wear foundations, mascaras, eyeliners, liquid lipsticks, tinted sunscreens, hair styling creams, sheet masks and even some lightweight moisturizers that promise all-day hold.
Adipic Acid/Dilinoleic Acid/Hexylene Glycol Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for one main role in cosmetic formulas.
Film forming: Once applied it dries into an invisible, flexible film that anchors pigments and active ingredients in place. The film resists water, sweat and oil which helps makeup last longer, keeps sunscreen evenly spread and gives hair products light hold without crispiness. Because the film is breathable and non-tacky it feels comfortable for all-day wear.
Who Can Use Adipic Acid/Dilinoleic Acid/Hexylene Glycol Copolymer
This copolymer is generally well tolerated by all skin types including oily, combination, dry and sensitive. Its light flexible film does not trap heat or clog pores which makes it comfortable even for those prone to breakouts.
Formulas made with this ingredient are suitable for vegans and vegetarians because the raw materials come from synthetic chemistry and plant-derived linoleic acid rather than animal sources.
Current data shows no issues for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in normal cosmetic amounts. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before introducing new products just to be safe.
The copolymer does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also odorless and free of gluten, nut oils and common food allergens which may be helpful for highly reactive users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Adipic Acid/Dilinoleic Acid/Hexylene Glycol Copolymer differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin redness or itching on very sensitive skin
- Temporary stinging if the product is applied to broken or freshly shaved skin
- Watery or stinging eyes if mascara or eyeliner containing the polymer migrates into the eye
- Follicle build up that may feel like product residue when used in heavy hair styling formulas
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis marked by persistent rash or swelling
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a dermatologist or healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 (low)
The copolymer molecules are large and sit on top of skin as a breathable film rather than seeping into pores. They are also non-oily and do not oxidize into pore-clogging by-products, which keeps the comedogenic potential minimal. The tiny risk comes from the fact that any film former, if layered heavily or not removed properly, can mix with sebum and trap debris.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin when used in normal cosmetic amounts.
If you use very heavy, long-wear makeup daily, double cleansing at night helps prevent any build-up that could indirectly contribute to congestion.
Summary
Adipic Acid/Dilinoleic Acid/Hexylene Glycol Copolymer is a synthetic film former that locks pigments, sunscreen filters and styling ingredients in place while staying light and flexible. Its main claim to fame is boosting the wear time of foundations, mascaras, eyeliners, lip colors, tinted SPF and lightweight hair products without adding greasiness or stiffness. Although not as well-known as silicones or acrylates, it is quietly popular among formulators looking for vegan, odorless options that resist water and sweat.
Current safety data shows the ingredient is non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic and low in comedogenicity, making it appropriate for most skin and hair types including sensitive and acne-prone. As with any new cosmetic it is wise to patch test a fresh product that contains this copolymer to make sure it agrees with your individual skin.