What Is Ammonia?
Ammonia, often labeled on cosmetic ingredient lists as “ammonia, anhydrous,” is a simple compound made of one nitrogen atom bonded to three hydrogen atoms (NH3). In nature it forms through the breakdown of organic matter and it is also present in small amounts in the air, soil and water. For commercial use it is usually produced through the Haber-Bosch process, which takes nitrogen from the air and combines it with hydrogen derived from natural gas under high pressure and temperature to create pure anhydrous ammonia.
The beauty industry began using ammonia in the early 1900s when it was found to help adjust the pH of hair dyes, allowing color to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively. Over time its role expanded to other products that need precise pH control or a sharp, clean scent.
Today you can spot ammonia in permanent hair color creams, bleaching kits, some salon-grade perm solutions, certain depilatory creams, select facial peels that require an alkaline boost, and a handful of fragrances that rely on its crisp top note.
Ammonia’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulations ammonia serves two main purposes
- Buffering: Ammonia helps keep a product’s pH within a narrow range, which protects both the formula’s stability and the user’s skin or hair from unexpected swings in acidity or alkalinity
- Fragrance: In very low amounts ammonia delivers a sharp, fresh scent that can brighten a perfume blend or add a clean note to hair products
Who Can Use Ammonia
Because ammonia raises a formula’s pH it can be too harsh for very sensitive or compromised skin, which may sting or redden on contact. Normal, oily and most combination skin types usually tolerate it when it is blended at low levels and balanced by soothing ingredients, while dry skin might feel extra tight or dehydrated after use.
Ammonia used in cosmetics is synthetically produced from air and natural gas so it does not contain animal derived materials. This makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Current research has not linked properly formulated topical ammonia to birth defects or lactation issues, yet data on frequent use during pregnancy or nursing is limited. This is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should ask a doctor before using products that contain ammonia to be safe.
Ammonia does not increase photosensitivity, so there is no special need for added sun protection beyond your normal routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical ammonia vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient has been correctly formulated and used as directed
- Skin irritation: Tingling, burning or redness can occur, especially on sensitive skin or on areas with cuts or abrasions
- Dryness or flaking: The alkaline nature of ammonia may strip natural oils and disrupt the skin barrier
- Contact dermatitis: A small number of users may develop an allergic rash or itching after repeated exposure
- Eye irritation: Vapors or accidental splashes can cause watering, stinging or temporary blurred vision
- Respiratory discomfort: In poorly ventilated spaces strong fumes may trigger coughing or throat irritation, particularly in asthmatics
- Scalp sensitivity: When used in hair dyes it can lead to itching or burning on the scalp, especially if left on too long
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5
Ammonia is a lightweight, water-soluble gas that evaporates quickly after application and contains no oils or waxy residues that could clog pores, so it earns a zero on the comedogenic scale. This makes it generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Because it dissipates into the air, there is little chance of it lingering on the skin to obstruct follicles or encourage bacterial growth.
One extra point to note is that ammonia’s volatility means any potential pore impact is short lived, which further supports its non-comedogenic status.
Summary
Ammonia’s main jobs in cosmetics are to act as a buffering agent that fine-tunes pH levels and to supply a bright, clean scent. It performs these roles by releasing hydroxide ions that raise alkalinity and by contributing a sharp top note that freshens fragrance blends.
While crucial in permanent hair color products and a handful of professional treatments, ammonia is not especially popular in everyday skincare because of its strong smell and potential for irritation when overused. Still, when included at controlled levels by experienced formulators it is considered safe for most users.
If you decide to try a product that contains ammonia be mindful of your personal sensitivity and perform a quick patch test first to make sure your skin handles it well.