Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate?

Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate is a synthetic surfactant derived from a blend of fatty alcohols that contain 12 to 15 carbon atoms. These alcohols are first reacted with ethylene oxide to form polyethylene glycol ethers, then treated with sulfur trioxide to introduce sulfate groups, and finally neutralized with ammonium hydroxide. The result is an amphiphilic molecule with a water-loving head and an oil-loving tail, a structure that allows it to interact with both water and oily substances.

Surfactants of this type began appearing in personal care products in the mid-20th century, when formulators looked for effective yet milder alternatives to traditional soaps. The ethoxylation step in its manufacture helps make it less irritating than many earlier sulfate surfactants, so it quickly found favor in everyday cleansing products.

Industrial production is a continuous process: the fatty alcohol mix is fed into ethoxylation reactors, the resulting alkoxylated alcohol is sulfated, then the acidic intermediate is neutralized. Quality control focuses on the average chain length, the ethoxylation number and the degree of sulfation because these factors determine foaming ability and mildness.

Owing to its reliable foaming and cleansing power, Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate is most often found in shampoos, body washes, liquid hand soaps, facial cleansers and shaving foams. It occasionally appears in exfoliating scrubs and rinse-off masks where a gentle yet effective cleanser is required to remove excess oils and product residues.

Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient serves a single key purpose in formulations, delivering the following benefit:

Cleansing: As an anionic surfactant it lowers the surface tension of water, allowing oils, dirt and daily grime to loosen and rinse away. It produces a rich lather, improves spreadability and leaves skin or hair feeling fresh without a heavy residue, making it valuable in any rinse-off product that aims for thorough yet relatively mild cleansing.

Who Can Use Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate

This surfactant suits most normal, oily and combination skin because it lifts away excess sebum without leaving film. People with very dry, eczema-prone or highly sensitive skin may find it a bit too cleansing, which can lead to tightness or irritation if used daily or in high concentrations. Hair types follow a similar pattern: it works well for oily or average scalps yet may be drying on very brittle or chemically treated hair.

The ingredient is produced from synthetic or plant-based fatty alcohols and contains no animal derivatives, so it is generally considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the finished product’s overall formulation and the brand’s cruelty-free policy if that is important to you.

No credible evidence links topical use of Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate to reproductive or developmental issues. Products that rinse off quickly limit any skin absorption, so they are usually regarded as low concern during pregnancy or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review their personal care routine with a healthcare professional to be on the safe side.

The surfactant does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is not classed as photosensitising. Aside from the usual need to follow directions and avoid getting it in the eyes, there are no special usage caveats.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient vary from one person to another. The points below outline possible but uncommon side effects when Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate is applied to skin or hair in a rinse-off product formulated within safety guidelines.

  • Dryness or tight feeling on skin after washing
  • Mild redness or stinging on sensitive or damaged skin
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitised to similar surfactants
  • Exacerbation of existing eczema or dermatitis when used frequently
  • Fading of color-treated hair with prolonged or daily use

If you experience any of these issues discontinue use and consult a medical professional or dermatologist for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate is highly water soluble and designed to rinse away cleanly. Because it does not leave a greasy film or linger in pores, the chance of it blocking follicles is very low, hence the score of 1 rather than 0. That small point is given only because any surfactant can cause brief surface dryness which in some people might kick-start extra oil production.

Overall it is considered suitable for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts when used in rinse-off products.

Its low residue profile means it will not interfere with leave-on acne treatments applied afterward, making it a convenient first step in many skincare routines.

Summary

Ammonium C12-15 Alketh Sulfate serves one core job: cleansing. As an anionic surfactant its charged head grabs water while its fatty tail grabs oil then both rinse away, lifting dirt sebum and product build-up from skin or hair and leaving a fresh feel without heavy residue.

The ingredient shows up in plenty of everyday shampoos body washes and face cleansers because it foams well yet is milder than older sulfate options. It is not the most buzz-worthy name in beauty but formulators value its balance of performance cost and gentle action.

Safety studies and decades of consumer use point to a low risk of serious irritation when it is used as directed in rinse-off products. Still everyone’s skin is different so patch testing a new product is a smart step before adding it to a full routine.

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