Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate?

Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate is a surfactant created by attaching a sulfate group to medium-length fatty alcohols that contain 12 to 15 carbon atoms, then neutralizing the mixture with ammonia. The fatty alcohols usually come from plant oils such as coconut or palm kernel, giving the ingredient a renewable base.

Surfactants like this started to replace traditional soap in the 1940s when chemists sought cleansers that lathered well in hard water and rinsed away without leaving residue. Over time formulators refined the process to produce milder, more consistent grades suitable for personal care.

To make it, manufacturers first react purified fatty alcohol with sulfur trioxide or concentrated sulfuric acid, forming an acidic sulfate ester. They then add aqueous ammonia, which neutralizes the mixture and yields the final ammonium salt. The result is a water-soluble powder or paste that blends easily into liquid formulas.

You will most often spot Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate in shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, bubble baths, hand soaps and some cleansing wipes where rich foam and quick rinsing are desired. It can also appear in exfoliating scrubs or clay masks that need extra help lifting away oil and dirt.

Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient plays a single but important role in personal care products.

Cleansing: As an anionic surfactant it lowers the surface tension of water so oils, sweat and daily grime can mix with the rinse water and wash away. It creates a dense lather that users associate with thorough cleaning yet rinses off quickly, helping leave skin and hair feeling fresh without a filmy after-feel.

Who Can Use Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate

This cleanser works best for normal, combination or oily skin and scalp types that can handle a brisk lather. People with very dry, eczema-prone or highly sensitive skin may find it too stripping because it lifts away natural oils quickly. In rinse-off formulas such as shampoo or body wash it is generally mild enough for most users, but leave-on products rarely employ it for that very reason.

The fatty alcohols that feed the process are usually sourced from coconut or palm so the ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. As always it is wise to check the full product label for any animal-derived additives elsewhere in the formula.

Current safety data show no special risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in wash-off cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should discuss all personal care products with a physician just to be safe.

Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more likely to burn in the sun. Because it rinses away completely it is also compatible with most other skincare actives you might use afterward.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions vary from person to person and the issues listed below are only potential outcomes. When the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in a well-formulated product most people will not experience any trouble.

  • Dryness or a tight after-wash feeling
  • Redness stinging or itching on sensitive skin
  • Eye irritation if foam enters the eyes
  • Faster fading of fresh hair color when used in shampoo

If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a medical professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate is highly water soluble and designed to lift oils away then rinse off completely, leaving little to no residue that could block pores. Because it is an anionic surfactant with no oily or waxy components its likelihood of clogging follicles is very low, which is why it earns a near-non-comedogenic score of 1 rather than a perfect 0. That small bump accounts for the fact that overly aggressive cleansing can sometimes prompt rebound oil production in very reactive skin.

In most rinse-off products the ingredient is considered fine for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Its pore safety drops only if combined with heavy occlusive agents that remain on the skin, so always consider the full formula rather than the surfactant alone.

Summary

Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate is a plant-derived surfactant whose main job is cleansing. By lowering water’s surface tension it lets oil dirt and sweat mix with rinse water so they wash away easily. This action also produces the dense foam many users expect from shampoos body washes and facial cleansers.

The ingredient is popular in budget-friendly mass market formulas because it foams well is easy to work with and costs less than some milder alternatives, yet boutique brands often choose gentler sulfate-free options for very sensitive skin.

Current research and decades of consumer use show the ingredient is safe in rinse-off cosmetics when used at standard concentrations. Still every skin type is different so it is smart to patch test any new product to rule out individual sensitivities.

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