Ammonium Glycolate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ammonium Glycolate?

Ammonium Glycolate is the ammonium salt of glycolic acid, the smallest member of the alpha hydroxy acid family. Glycolic acid can be sourced from plant sugars like sugar cane, then reacted with a dilute ammonia solution to form this stable salt. Converting the acid into its ammonium form helps control pH, making it gentler and easier to incorporate into skin care formulas.

Alpha hydroxy acids entered mainstream beauty products in the late 1970s when researchers found they could loosen dead skin cells and reveal fresher looking skin. Formulators soon adopted Ammonium Glycolate for the same exfoliating ability but with added pH-buffering benefits. Today it is made in large batches by neutralizing purified glycolic acid with food-grade ammonia, filtering the crystals and drying them into a fine powder ready for cosmetic use.

You will often see Ammonium Glycolate in facial peels, toners, anti-aging creams, body lotions, foot creams and rough skin treatments where controlled exfoliation and pH balance are needed.

Ammonium Glycolate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient brings two key actions to a formula

  • Buffering – helps keep the product’s pH in the desired range so the formula stays stable and comfortable on skin
  • Keratolytic – loosens the bonds between dead surface cells which smoothes rough spots, reduces flaking and encourages a brighter more even appearance

Who Can Use Ammonium Glycolate

Most skin types can benefit from Ammonium Glycolate. Normal, oily and combination skin often tolerate it well thanks to its balanced pH. Dry skin can also use it but may need an extra moisturizer because exfoliation can reduce surface lipids. Those with very sensitive or compromised skin barriers should approach carefully since any alpha hydroxy acid can cause tingling or redness if the skin is already reactive.

The ingredient is produced from plant-derived glycolic acid and food-grade ammonia so it contains no animal by-products, making it suitable for both vegetarians and vegans.

Current research has not shown specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Ammonium Glycolate is applied topically at cosmetic concentrations. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products, just to be safe.

Like all alpha hydroxy acids, Ammonium Glycolate can make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen and limited sun exposure are recommended while using products that contain it.

If you already use other potent actives such as retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, introduce Ammonium Glycolate slowly to avoid cumulative irritation.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to Ammonium Glycolate vary from person to person. The points below outline possible but uncommon reactions when the ingredient is applied to skin in a finished product that has been formulated correctly.

  • Temporary stinging or burning sensations, especially on freshly cleansed or damp skin
  • Redness or flushing in areas with thinner skin
  • Dryness or tightness if the product is overused or not followed with adequate hydration
  • Mild peeling or flaking as dead surface cells shed more quickly
  • Increased photosensitivity leading to quicker sunburn if sunscreen is skipped
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones if irritation becomes pronounced
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as persistent itch or rash
  • Heightened irritation when layered with other strong actives like retinoids or high-strength exfoliants

If any uncomfortable or worsening reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare provider or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Ammonium Glycolate is highly water-soluble, contains no heavy oils or waxes and rinses away easily so it does not obstruct pores. Because it actually helps clear away dead cells that can trap sebum, the likelihood of clogging is extremely low.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

While it will not cause comedones, its exfoliating action can sometimes bring existing blockages to the surface faster, which might look like a temporary flare before skin settles.

Summary

Ammonium Glycolate buffers a formula’s pH and acts as a keratolytic exfoliant. By maintaining an optimal acidity it keeps other ingredients stable and comfortable on skin, and by loosening the bonds between dead cells it smooths texture and brightens tone.

It is a steady performer found in peels, creams, lotions and foot treatments, though it does not enjoy the spotlight the way glycolic acid or lactic acid do. Still many formulators choose it for its gentle yet effective profile.

When used at cosmetic levels it is considered very safe for most people with routine sunscreen use. As with any new skincare ingredient, perform a simple patch test first to rule out individual sensitivity.

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