Ammonium Glycyrrhizate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ammonium Glycyrrhizate?

Ammonium glycyrrhizate is the ammonium salt of glycyrrhizic acid, the sweet-tasting compound naturally found in the roots of the licorice plant Glycyrrhiza glabra. Centuries ago people prized licorice for its flavor in food and confectionery; modern formulators noticed that the same compound offered soothing and pleasant-tasting qualities that suit personal care products. Production starts with harvesting licorice roots, which are dried, milled and treated with hot water to pull out glycyrrhizic acid. The extract is then purified and reacted with a controlled amount of ammonia solution, creating a water-soluble powder or paste that blends easily into cosmetic bases. Because it is gentle, mildly sweet and able to condition skin, you will spot ammonium glycyrrhizate in face masks, leave-on moisturizers, calming serums, after-sun lotions, lip balms, flavored mouth rinses and scented creams.

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare and personal care formulas this multitasker pulls its weight in several ways:

  • Flavouring – delivers a naturally sweet taste that improves the sensory experience of lip balms, toothpastes and mouthwashes so the product is more pleasant to use
  • Fragrance – adds a soft, subtle licorice-like aroma that rounds out or masks less desirable raw material odors, helping the final product smell balanced and inviting
  • Skin Conditioning – offers mild soothing and hydrating support, helping the skin feel soft and comfortable which makes it a welcome addition to calming creams, after-sun gels and daily moisturizers

Who Can Use Ammonium Glycyrrhizate

Because it is water soluble and non-occlusive, ammonium glycyrrhizate is generally well tolerated by oily, dry, normal and combination skin. Its gentle nature and lack of pore-clogging oils make it a friendly option for acne-prone or sensitive complexions too. There are no specific skin types that must avoid it, though anyone with a known allergy to licorice derivatives should steer clear.

The ingredient is synthesized from plant roots and reacted with ammonia, with no animal-derived substances involved, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current safety data show no concerns for topical use during pregnancy or breastfeeding, yet this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing mothers should review any skincare product with their healthcare professional before use to be safe.

Ammonium glycyrrhizate does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special sun-related caution beyond the normal recommendation to wear sunscreen daily.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical ammonium glycyrrhizate differ between individuals. The points below outline potential side effects that are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in people allergic to licorice root compounds
  • Eye irritation if the product is accidentally rubbed into the eyes

If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare provider.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5 (non-comedogenic)

Ammonium glycyrrhizate is a water-soluble salt with no oily or waxy components so it does not sit on the skin or block pores. Its molecular size and quick rinse-off profile in cleansers and mouth products further reduce any risk of congestion. It is therefore suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts.

No studies link the ingredient to blackheads or pustules, even at the higher percentages used in flavored lip care, making it one of the safer choices for clear-skin routines.

Summary

Ammonium glycyrrhizate lends natural sweetness, a soft licorice scent and a mild soothing touch, allowing formulators to use a single material for flavoring, fragrance and skin conditioning. Its sweetness comes from glycyrrhizic acid’s ability to stimulate taste receptors, the aroma arises from the same plant-derived molecules, and the calming effect is tied to subtle anti-inflammatory activity that comforts irritated skin.

While it will not top the charts of trendy actives, this ingredient quietly appears in lip balms, mouthwashes, calming creams and after-sun gels because it works, is inexpensive and has a long safety record.

Topical use is considered very safe for all skin types with allergy being the only real concern. As with any new product, doing a small patch test is a smart way to rule out unexpected sensitivity.

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