What Is Ammonium Laureth Sulfate?
Ammonium laureth sulfate, often shortened to ALES, is a surfactant derived from lauryl alcohol that has been reacted with ethylene oxide then neutralized with ammonium to form a sulfate salt. The result is a water-soluble compound with a long, oil-loving tail and a water-loving head, a structure that lets it lift dirt and oils from skin or hair. First introduced in the 1960s as a gentler alternative to traditional soap, ALES quickly became popular when formulators realized it could create rich lather even in hard water without the tight, squeaky feel classic soaps left behind.
Manufacturing starts with coconut or palm kernel oil, natural sources of lauryl alcohol. This alcohol undergoes ethoxylation, where a few units of ethylene oxide are added to improve mildness. The product is then sulfated and finally neutralized with ammonium hydroxide, yielding a clear or slightly hazy liquid that blends easily into water-based systems.
You will most often find ALES in everyday rinse-off products such as shampoos, body washes, liquid hand soaps, bubble baths and facial cleansers. It also shows up in shaving foams, exfoliating scrubs and the occasional clay or peel-off mask when a fast-rinsing, high-foam clean is desired.
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Below are the primary roles this ingredient plays in personal care formulas
- Cleansing – Its surfactant structure surrounds oil and grime so they can be rinsed away with water leaving skin and hair feeling fresh
- Foaming – ALES produces dense, stable bubbles that give products a luxurious lather improving user experience and helping spread the formula evenly
Who Can Use Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
ALES works for most skin and hair types including normal, oily and combination because it rinses clean without leaving a heavy film. Those with very dry or sensitive skin may find it a bit too stripping if used in high amounts or in leave-on products since it can remove natural oils along with dirt. Formulas that blend ALES with gentler co-surfactants or moisturizers are usually better suited to these more delicate skin types.
The ingredient is plant derived in modern production, coming from coconut or palm kernel oil, so it is suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Pregnant or breastfeeding users can generally use products containing ALES because it stays on the skin or hair for only a short time and has very low absorption. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should confirm the safety of any personal care product with a qualified health professional just to be safe.
ALES does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also does not interfere with common actives like retinol or vitamin C in rinse-off formats.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Ammonium Laureth Sulfate vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in a well-formulated product.
- Dryness or tightness if the formula is highly concentrated or left on the skin for too long
- Itching or mild irritation especially on very sensitive or compromised skin
- Redness often linked to over-washing or using hot water alongside the cleanser
- Eye sting if the cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes
- Contact dermatitis in rare cases for individuals with a specific allergy to sulfated surfactants
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Ammonium laureth sulfate is water soluble and designed to remove oils rather than sit on the skin, so it has very little chance of blocking pores. It is used almost exclusively in rinse-off products that spend under a minute on the skin, further reducing any clogging risk. This low rating makes it generally suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts. Because it is an anionic surfactant, it can cause dryness if overused, which might trigger reactive oil production in some users, but it does not directly create comedones.
Summary
Ammonium laureth sulfate is prized for two simple jobs: lifting away dirt and creating a satisfying lather. Its dual-natured molecule grabs onto oil with its tail while its head mixes with water, letting grime rinse down the drain and leaving hair or skin feeling clean and fresh. The ingredient shows up in countless everyday shampoos, body washes and hand soaps thanks to its reliable foam, budget-friendly cost and plant-derived origin.
Safety profiles from regulatory bodies rate it as low risk when used at typical levels in wash-off products. Irritation is possible if formulas are too strong or if skin is already compromised, though most people tolerate it well. As with any new skincare or haircare product, patch testing is a smart move to make sure your own skin stays happy.