What Is Ammonium Lauroyl Sarcosinate?
Ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate is a mild surfactant made by combining lauric acid, a fatty acid most often sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil, with sarcosine, a naturally occurring amino acid derivative. The resulting lauroyl sarcosine is then neutralized with ammonium hydroxide to form the finished ingredient. First explored in the 1960s as a gentler alternative to sulfate surfactants, it gained popularity because it cleans well without stripping the skin or hair of moisture. Today it appears in a wide range of water based personal care items such as shampoos, facial cleansers, body washes, micellar waters, makeup removers, face masks, shaving creams and baby care washes.
Ammonium Lauroyl Sarcosinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient offers several helpful roles in a single formula
- Cleansing: Breaks up oil, dirt and daily buildup so they can be rinsed away for a fresh feel
- Foaming: Creates a creamy lather that spreads the product easily and makes washing feel more pleasant
- Antistatic: Helps reduce static electricity on hair making strands smoother and easier to manage
- Hair conditioning: Adds a light conditioning effect that leaves hair softer and less prone to tangles
Who Can Use Ammonium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
This gentle surfactant is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it cleans without disrupting the skin’s natural barrier. People with extremely sensitive or allergy-prone skin should still check the full ingredient list of any product to be sure they are not reactive to other components in the formula.
The ingredient is produced from plant-derived fatty acids and a synthesized amino acid so it is typically considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. No animal by-products are required to make it though sourcing policies can vary by brand so strict vegans may wish to confirm with the manufacturer.
Products containing ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate are usually viewed as safe for use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding because the ingredient is used in rinse-off or low leave-on concentrations and is not known to penetrate deeply. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run their skincare choices past a qualified healthcare professional to be on the safe side.
It does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special need for extra sun protection beyond the normal daily use of sunscreen. Because it is sulfate-free and mild it is also considered color-safe for chemically treated hair.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects yet they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a professionally formulated product.
- Temporary skin irritation such as mild redness or tingling
- Dryness or tightness if the formula is left on the skin for too long or used excessively
- Eye stinging when the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to sarcosine derivatives or other formula components
If you experience any discomfort or signs of irritation stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 (non-comedogenic)
Ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate is a water-soluble surfactant that rinses off easily and leaves no oily film behind, so it does not block pores or encourage blackheads. Because it is used at low levels and in formulas that are washed away, it poses virtually no clogging risk even for oily or combination skin types. This makes it suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
One extra point to note is that most studies on comedogenicity focus on leave-on ingredients, so the already low risk for a rinse-off agent like this is considered even smaller.
Summary
Ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate works as a gentle cleansing agent that lifts away oil and grime, builds a soft foam, reduces static on hair and imparts a light conditioning feel. Its amphiphilic structure lets one end cling to dirt while the other end mixes with water, allowing impurities to wash off without stripping skin or hair.
It has gained steady popularity as a milder, sulfate-free option found in shampoos, face washes, body cleansers, micellar waters and baby products, though it is still less of a household name than traditional sulfates.
Regulatory bodies and industry panels rate it as safe for cosmetics, with only rare reports of irritation. As with any new product, consider a small patch test to rule out individual sensitivity before full use.