What Is Ammonium Myreth Sulfate?
Ammonium Myreth Sulfate is a synthetic surfactant made by linking fatty alcohols, usually derived from coconut or palm oil, with ethylene oxide units and then adding a sulfate group that is neutralized with ammonium. The result is a water-soluble compound that lowers the surface tension of water, helping oils and debris rinse away easily.
The ingredient gained traction in the late 1980s when formulators were looking for gentler alternatives to harsher sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate. By tweaking the length of the fatty chain and adding ethoxylation steps, chemists created a surfactant that kept strong cleansing power yet felt milder on skin and hair.
Production starts with a mid-chain fatty alcohol, most often myristyl alcohol. This alcohol is reacted with ethylene oxide to form polyethylene glycol ethers. The new molecule is then sulfated using sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid and finally neutralized with ammonium hydroxide. The finished material is a clear to pale yellow liquid that blends well with water.
You will usually spot Ammonium Myreth Sulfate in shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, bubble baths, hand soaps and some exfoliating scrubs. Its mild nature lets brands label products as suitable for daily use or for sensitive skin.
Ammonium Myreth Sulfate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient plays several key roles in rinse-off products
- Cleansing: The surfactant structure lifts away dirt, oil and product buildup so they can be rinsed off, leaving skin and hair feeling fresh without a squeaky or stripped sensation
- Foaming: It helps formulas create a dense, stable lather that spreads easily across the skin or scalp, improving the sensory experience and making it simple to gauge coverage
Who Can Use Ammonium Myreth Sulfate
Thanks to its milder profile Ammonium Myreth Sulfate is generally suitable for normal, oily and combination skin as well as most scalp types. Sensitive skin often tolerates it better than harsher sulfates though people with very dry or eczema-prone skin may still find frequent use a bit dehydrating because any surfactant can strip natural lipids over time.
The fatty alcohols used to make Ammonium Myreth Sulfate are typically sourced from coconut or palm oil and no animal-derived components are required during synthesis so the finished material is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly.
No studies indicate special risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when using rinse-off products containing this ingredient. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run all personal care choices past a qualified health professional just to stay on the safe side.
Ammonium Myreth Sulfate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so no additional sun precautions are needed beyond daily SPF best practice.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Ammonium Myreth Sulfate vary from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential issues and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Transient skin or scalp dryness, especially with very frequent washing
- Mild irritation or redness in individuals with compromised or highly sensitive skin barriers
- Eye stinging if the lather accidentally gets into the eyes during use
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases for those sensitized to sulfate surfactants
- Slight fading of semi-permanent hair color due to its cleansing efficiency
If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Ammonium Myreth Sulfate is a water-soluble surfactant that does not linger on the skin and has no oily or waxy residues, so the likelihood of it blocking pores is very low. Because it is typically used in rinse-off products any fleeting contact with the skin further reduces clogging risk. For these reasons it earns a rating of 1 rather than a perfect 0, simply acknowledging that very sensitive users could still react to any cleansing agent.
Overall it is considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
One extra point: finished formulas that pair this surfactant with heavy oils or butters could raise the overall comedogenic potential of the product even if the surfactant itself is nearly non-comedogenic.
Summary
Ammonium Myreth Sulfate works mainly as a cleanser and foaming agent. Its ethoxylated fatty chain breaks down oil and grime while the sulfate group boosts water solubility so the debris washes away easily, and the ammonium counterion softens the overall charge making it feel gentler on skin and hair.
It enjoyed a rise in popularity when brands wanted milder alternatives to sodium lauryl sulfate but today it competes with a wide range of sulfate-free surfactants, so its use is moderate rather than mainstream.
Current research and decades of consumer use show it to be safe for the vast majority of people when used as directed in rinse-off formulas. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test a product before full use to make sure your skin agrees with it.