What Is Ammonium Myristyl Sulfate?
Ammonium myristyl sulfate, also called ammonium tetradecyl sulphate, is a surfactant made by attaching a myristyl (14-carbon) fatty alcohol to a sulfate group, then neutralizing it with ammonium. The fatty alcohol itself usually comes from coconut or palm kernel oil, giving the ingredient a partly natural origin. Surfactants like this rose to popularity in the mid-20th century when chemists searched for gentler alternatives to traditional soaps. By controlling the length of the fatty chain and the counter-ion, they created cleansing agents that lather well in hard or soft water and leave less residue.
The manufacturing process starts with myristyl alcohol, which is reacted with sulfur trioxide to form myristyl sulfuric acid. This acid is then treated with ammonium hydroxide to yield the final salt, ammonium myristyl sulfate. The result is a water-soluble powder or paste that is easy to blend into cosmetic bases.
You will most often find this ingredient in shampoos, facial cleansers, body washes, bubble baths and occasionally in foaming hand soaps or exfoliating scrubs where a rich, stable foam is desired. It is generally not used in leave-on moisturizers or serums because its primary job is to rinse away.
Ammonium Myristyl Sulfate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In rinse-off products this surfactant performs a few valuable tasks that improve both the feel and effectiveness of the formula
- Cleansing: Lowers the surface tension of water so oils, dirt and impurities can be lifted from skin or hair and washed away quickly
- Foaming: Produces dense, creamy lather that spreads the cleanser evenly and gives users the sensory cue that the product is working
Who Can Use Ammonium Myristyl Sulfate
This surfactant is generally suitable for normal, oily and combination skin types since it removes excess sebum without leaving a heavy film. Dry or sensitive skin can tolerate it in well-balanced formulas, but high concentrations or long contact times may strip natural oils, so those users should look for products blended with soothing or moisturizing co-ingredients. Acne-prone skin usually does well because the ingredient rinses clean and does not clog pores.
Ammonium myristyl sulfate is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly because the fatty alcohol is sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm kernel, not from animal by-products.
Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this ingredient is used in rinse-off products. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should confirm all personal care products with a healthcare professional.
The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it does not make skin more prone to sunburn.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to topical ammonium myristyl sulfate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential issues that are possible yet unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is properly formulated
- Skin dryness prolonged or frequent use can remove too much of the skin’s natural oil barrier
- Mild irritation some people may notice redness stinging or itchiness, especially on already compromised skin
- Contact dermatitis rare allergic responses can lead to patchy inflammation or rash
- Eye irritation if the lather gets into the eyes it can cause temporary burning or watering
- Scalp flakiness in shampoos excessive cleansing can leave the scalp dry or tight
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Ammonium myristyl sulfate is a water-soluble surfactant that rinses off completely and contains no heavy oils or waxes, so it has very little tendency to lodge inside pores or mix with sebum. The small chance of pore blockage comes from its ability to disturb the skin barrier if overused, which can trigger reactive oil production in some people. Overall it is considered safe for those prone to acne or breakouts, especially in well-formulated rinse-off products. No notable interactions with common acne medications have been reported.
Summary
Ammonium myristyl sulfate acts mainly as a cleanser and foam booster. Its sulfate head attracts water while the 14-carbon tail grabs oils and debris, letting grime lift away when you rinse. This dual nature also traps air, creating the rich lather people associate with a thorough clean.
The ingredient is moderately popular in shampoos, face washes and body cleansers, though it is not as ubiquitous as sodium lauryl sulfate because formulators sometimes choose milder or more widely recognized alternatives.
Used correctly it is regarded as low risk. Most studies and practical experience show only minor dryness or irritation in sensitive users, with no long-term safety concerns. As with any new skincare or haircare product, it is wise to perform a small patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the full formula that contains this surfactant.