What Is Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate?
Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate is a specialty ingredient created by reacting fluorinated alcohols that have 8 to 18 carbon atoms with phosphoric acid, then neutralizing the mixture with aminomethylpropanol. The result is a salt that behaves like a lightweight surfactant, sporting a water-loving phosphate head and an oil-loving fluorinated tail. Fluorinated surfactants started drawing attention in the 1990s when cosmetic chemists wanted foundations and sunscreens that stayed in place under heat, sweat and humidity. Because this molecule lowers surface tension so well, it soon earned a spot in long-wear and waterproof formulas.
Production begins with the synthesis of the perfluoroalkylethyl alcohols. These are reacted with phosphorus pentoxide or phosphoric acid to form phosphate esters. A precise amount of aminomethylpropanol is then added to neutralize the acidic mixture, yielding the final salt form that is stable and easy to handle in water-based systems.
You will most often spot Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate in liquid foundations, BB creams, long-wear concealers, water-resistant sunscreens, make-up setting sprays, lightweight moisturizers, sheet masks and two-phase makeup removers where its ability to keep oils and water perfectly blended is prized.
Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings several practical benefits to everyday beauty products.
- Emulsion stabilising: It helps oil and water stay evenly mixed so a lotion or foundation does not separate on the shelf or on the skin, giving a smooth consistent finish.
- Solvent: Its fluorinated tail can dissolve stubborn oil-based pigments and UV filters, allowing chemists to use vivid colors or high SPF levels without a greasy feel.
- Cleansing: When used in rinse-off products it loosens makeup, sunscreen and sebum, letting them wash away more easily while leaving skin feeling soft rather than stripped.
Who Can Use Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate
This surfactant is lightweight and non-greasy so it suits oily, combination and normal skin. Dry skin can also tolerate it because it does not strip lipids or leave a tight feeling. Sensitive skin usually does well since the molecule is large and not known to penetrate deeply but anyone with a history of reactivity to fluorinated ingredients should proceed cautiously.
The material is synthesized entirely from laboratory chemicals and contains no animal-derived components so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No developmental or reproductive hazards have been linked to topical use. Women who are pregnant or breastfeeding can generally use products that contain Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate but this is not medical advice and it is best to show the full ingredient list to a healthcare professional before starting any new routine.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and has no known effect on sun tolerance. It is also fragrance-free and gluten-free which may matter to some users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate differ from person to person. The points below list potential issues but most people will not notice any of them when the ingredient is used at the low levels common in cosmetics.
- Mild skin irritation
- Transient redness on very sensitive skin
- Eye stinging if the product migrates into the eye area
- Contact dermatitis in individuals already allergic to fluorinated surfactants
If any irritation or discomfort develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate is used at very low levels, has a slippery non-greasy feel and forms a thin film that tends to sit on the surface rather than soaking into pores. Its fluorinated tail is chemically inert and resists oxidation, which further lowers the chance of clogging. The molecule does carry an 8-18 carbon chain so a tiny risk remains, but real-world reports of breakouts are rare.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin in most cases.
No published data shows it feeds Cutibacterium acnes and it is often paired with oil-free or non-comedogenic foundations, which supports the low rating.
Summary
Amp-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate is a multitasking helper that stabilises emulsions, dissolves stubborn pigments and filters and provides gentle cleansing action. It does this by combining a water-loving phosphate head with an oil-loving fluorinated tail, lowering surface tension so oils and water cooperate in a single smooth mixture.
The ingredient is a niche pick, seen mostly in long-wear makeup and high-performance sunscreens rather than everyday lotions, but formulators who need bulletproof stability keep it in their toolbox.
Current safety data and decades of cosmetic use show it to be low risk with only mild irritation reported in rare cases. As with any new product, patch testing on a small area first is a smart move to confirm personal tolerance.