Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract?

Aquilaria malaccensis is better known as one of the trees that form agarwood, prized for its deep, woody scent. While the resinous heartwood is famous in perfumery, the stem itself also carries useful plant compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids and other natural antioxidants. Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract is made by collecting the stems, drying and grinding them, then soaking the powder in a gentle food-grade solvent or water-glycol mix. The liquid is filtered and concentrated, yielding a brownish fluid or powder that blends smoothly into water-based formulations. Its rise in skincare began when formulators looked for sustainable plant antioxidants beyond the usual green tea and vitamin E. Today you can spot it in soothing sheet masks, anti-aging serums, calming essences, lightweight moisturizers and after-sun gels.

Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The extract functions primarily as an antioxidant, which means it helps neutralize free radicals generated by UV light, pollution and normal skin metabolism. By limiting this oxidative stress, it supports a more even skin tone, helps maintain firmness and can extend the shelf life of delicate oils and fragrances in the product itself.

Who Can Use Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract

Because the extract is light and water friendly it suits most skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry. It can even work for sensitive skin since it has no known harsh acids or exfoliating agents. Very reactive or allergy-prone users should still pay close attention to the full formula because added fragrances or preservatives, not the extract itself, are more likely to cause trouble.

The extract is plant based so it is suitable for vegetarians and vegans. No animal parts or by-products are involved in harvesting the stems or producing the final raw material.

Current safety data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the extract is used at the low levels found in cosmetics. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a doctor just to be on the safe side.

Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract does not increase sun sensitivity and can be used morning or night. It actually offers extra antioxidant support when paired with daily sunscreen.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues, though they are not expected for the average user when the ingredient has been formulated correctly.

  • Mild redness or itching – more likely in people who already react to many plant extracts
  • Stinging on broken or freshly exfoliated skin – usually subsides once the skin barrier is repaired
  • Allergic contact dermatitis – very rare but possible for individuals sensitized to Aquilaria species
  • Interaction with highly acidic actives – in formulas with very low pH the extract can lose potency which may lead to unexpected color changes in the product

If irritation or any listed effect occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0–1 (essentially non-comedogenic)
Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract is a water-based plant antioxidant with virtually no heavy oils waxes or butters, so it has little chance of clogging pores. In lab stability tests it shows low adherence to sebum and rinses away easily, which further lowers the risk of buildup. This makes it a comfortable choice for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Unless the final formula pairs the extract with highly occlusive ingredients its presence should not contribute to comedones.

Because the extract is usually used at small percentages the overall texture of the product has more influence on pore clogging than the extract itself.

Summary

Aquilaria Malaccensis Stem Extract brings a boost of plant-based antioxidants that mop up free radicals generated by sun exposure pollution and day-to-day stress. By calming this oxidation it helps skin look brighter feel firmer and keeps delicate oils in the formula from going rancid too quickly.

It is still a niche ingredient compared with green tea or vitamin C but interest is growing as brands search for sustainable exotic botanicals that stand out on the label.

Current research shows it is well tolerated across skin types with minimal risk when used at cosmetic levels. As with any new skincare product a quick patch test is wise to make sure your skin agrees before applying it more broadly.

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