What Is Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17?
Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 is a lab-designed form of vitamin C in which ascorbic acid is linked to a small dipeptide through a carbonyl group. The peptide link shields the delicate vitamin C core from light and air, improving its stability on the shelf and on the skin. This molecule is entirely synthetic, created by reacting purified ascorbic acid with two selected amino acids under controlled temperature and pH, then filtering and drying the blend into a fine, water-dispersible powder.
Interest in peptide-bound vitamin C began in the early 2000s when researchers looked for ways to deliver the brightening power of vitamin C without the rapid oxidation that limits pure ascorbic acid. Cosmetic chemists found that joining the vitamin to tiny peptides helped it resist breakdown while adding a skin-friendly feel. Over the past decade the ingredient has moved from pilot studies into mainstream formulations thanks to improved production methods that keep costs in check and ensure consistent purity.
You will most often see Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 in lightweight serums, anti-aging creams, sheet masks, eye treatments and brightening spot correctors. Brands choose it for products aimed at dullness, first signs of aging and overall skin resilience.
Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multifunctional vitamin C derivative is prized for the following role in skin care:
As a skin conditioning agent it helps improve skin texture, supports a smoother surface, and promotes a more even tone by delivering vitamin C in a form the skin can tolerate well.
Who Can Use Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17
The gentle nature of this peptide-bound vitamin C makes it suitable for most skin types, including normal, dry, combination and oily skin. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it better than pure ascorbic acid because the peptide shell reduces the tingling and sting sometimes linked to strong vitamin C formulas. Those with very reactive or broken skin barriers should still introduce it slowly, as any active ingredient can feel uncomfortable on compromised skin.
Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 is made entirely in the lab from non-animal raw materials so it is appropriate for both vegans and vegetarians. Brands that carry vegan certification often flag this ingredient for that reason.
No data suggest a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied topically in cosmetic concentrations. That said this is not medical advice. If you are pregnant or nursing, check every new skincare product with your physician to be sure it aligns with your individual circumstances.
The molecule itself does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Daily sunscreen is still advisable because healthy sun habits protect the brightening results you hope to achieve and keep any vitamin C derivative from degrading too quickly on the skin.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 vary from person to person. The effects below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild tingling or warmth
- Dryness or tightness if layered with many other actives
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to peptides or vitamin C derivatives
- Interaction with high pH cleansers or leave-on exfoliating acids, which can amplify irritation
If any discomfort persists or worsens discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5
Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 is a water-based vitamin C peptide with no heavy oils or waxes so it does not clog pores or leave a greasy film. Because the molecule sits lightly on the skin and rinses away with normal cleansing it is considered non-comedogenic.
People who are prone to acne or regular breakouts can usually use this ingredient without seeing an uptick in blocked pores.
No data link it to fungal acne or sebaceous filament flare-ups though the final product’s full formula and texture will also influence how pore-friendly it feels.
Summary
Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 is a stabilised vitamin C joined to a tiny peptide that conditions skin, supports a brighter more even tone and helps soften rough patches. The peptide shield slows oxidation so more active vitamin C reaches the skin where it can do its antioxidant work and nudge collagen production.
The ingredient is gaining traction in serums masks and eye creams but it is not yet as common as classic vitamin C derivatives like ascorbyl glucoside. As more brands look for gentle high-tech actives you can expect to see it pop up more often.
Safety data to date show low irritation potential and no known systemic risks when used in typical cosmetic doses. Still every formula is unique so patch test any new product that contains Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 especially if your skin is sensitive.