Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder?

Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder is a finely milled powder created from sake kasu, the nutrient rich residue left after rice is fermented to make sake. During fermentation the microorganism Aspergillus oryzae breaks down rice starches while alcohol is generated, producing a by-product packed with enzymes, amino acids, vitamins and sugars. Once the wet lees are collected, they are gently dried and ground into a soft beige powder suitable for cosmetic use.

The practice of using sake by-products on skin dates back centuries in Japan. Brewers noticed that their hands remained smooth and bright despite long hours in cold water, leading to the traditional application of sake baths and masks. Modern laboratories isolated the active compounds in sake lees and standardized them into this cosmetic-grade powder, allowing formulators to capture those historical skin benefits with reliable quality and safety.

Today the ingredient appears in a variety of water-based and anhydrous products. You will commonly find it in brightening masks, moisturizing creams, anti-aging serums, gentle exfoliating powders, skin-softening body lotions and hand treatments where a natural glow and added hydration are desired.

Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking powder supports both the feel and appearance of skin in several ways:

  • Bleaching agent – Natural kojic acid and other fermentation derivatives help reduce the look of dark spots which promotes a more even tone and a brighter complexion
  • Humectant – Its mix of sugars and amino acids attracts and binds moisture, boosting skin hydration, improving softness and minimizing the appearance of fine lines due to dryness
  • Skin conditioning – Vitamins, peptides and enzymes nourish the skin’s surface, leaving it smoother and more supple while enhancing overall texture

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder

This ferment based powder is generally well tolerated by most skin types including normal, dry, combination and mature skin thanks to its humectant and conditioning profile. Oily and acne prone users can also benefit from its light texture but those highly prone to fungal acne or with a known sensitivity to ferments may prefer to patch test first because residues from Aspergillus fermentation could aggravate an already unbalanced microbiome. Extremely reactive or compromised skin should introduce it slowly, as any new active may sting on a weakened barrier.

The ingredient contains no animal derived material and is produced from rice, alcohol and a microorganism culture so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

Current data does not flag the powder as a concern for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. It is not absorbed systemically at meaningful levels when used topically, yet this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should show the full product label to a healthcare professional before use to be safe.

Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder is not known to cause photosensitivity. Still, because it supports brightening routines that often target sun spots, daily sunscreen is wise to maintain results.

The ingredient plays well with most common actives such as niacinamide, peptides and ceramides, giving formulators flexibility when designing multi benefit products.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder vary from person to person. The points below outline potential adverse effects that are possible yet unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated and applied correctly.

  • Transient redness or mild stinging, particularly on freshly exfoliated or damaged skin
  • Itching or rash in users allergic to molds, yeasts or rice proteins
  • Dryness or flaking if formulas combine the powder with high levels of other exfoliating acids
  • Pore congestion or breakout in individuals with fungal acne sensitivities
  • Eye irritation if loose powder particles are accidentally rubbed into the eye area

If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare provider or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder is primarily made up of lightweight starches, amino acids and water-soluble sugars that sit on the skin without forming an occlusive film, so it has very little tendency to clog pores. It lacks heavy oils or waxes that typically drive comedogenicity, and its particle size is small enough to rinse away easily when used in wash-off formats. This makes it generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, although highly fungal-acne-sensitive users may still want to observe how their skin responds.

The final comedogenic impact also depends on the full formula. If the powder is blended into a thick, oil-rich cream the product could feel heavier than the raw ingredient suggests.

Summary

Aspergillus/Alcohol/Rice Ferment Lees Powder works as a natural brightener, humectant and skin conditioner. Kojic acid and other fermentation by-products help fade the look of dark spots, the sugar and amino acid profile pulls water into the skin for lasting hydration and the mix of vitamins enzymes and peptides smooths texture for a softer feel. All three actions come from the unique biochemical soup created when rice is fermented with Aspergillus oryzae.

Outside Japan this ingredient is still a bit of a niche find, but interest is climbing as consumers look for gentle ferment-based actives that deliver a healthy glow without harsh chemicals. You will mostly spot it in brightening masks and lightweight lotions aimed at a dewy finish.

Current data points to a strong safety profile with low irritation risk for most users. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to run a quick patch test when first trying a product that contains it so you can ensure your skin is happy before applying it more broadly.

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