Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate?

Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate comes from the thin brown skin that surrounds the kernels of the Asian chestnut Castanea crenata. Cosmetic chemists pair this plant material with Aspergillus, a microbe long used in food fermentations such as sake and miso, to unlock a range of skin and hair friendly compounds. During fermentation the fungus breaks down the pellicle’s tough cell walls, releasing amino acids, simple sugars, minerals and antioxidant molecules. Once the process is complete the mixture is pressed, filtered and refined to remove any residual solids, leaving a clear water-like liquid that can be added to cosmetic formulas.

The ingredient gained traction in Korean beauty labs that were exploring traditional fermentation methods for gentler yet effective actives. Today it is produced in controlled tanks where temperature, pH and fermentation time are closely monitored to assure a consistent profile and high purity. After filtration the liquid is sterilised and tested for safety before shipment to manufacturers.

You are most likely to spot Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate in hydrating sheet masks, lightweight essences, anti aging serums, daily moisturisers, scalp treatments, rinse-off and leave-in hair conditioners and multitasking creams aimed at dull or stressed skin.

Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fermented filtrate offers a duo of benefits that enhance both skincare and haircare formulas.

  • Hair conditioning: the blend of amino acids and sugars forms a thin breathable film on strands which smooths rough cuticles, reduces static and improves combability so hair feels softer and looks shinier
  • Skin conditioning: its humectant sugars draw moisture to the surface while chestnut antioxidants help neutralise free radicals; together they support a healthy barrier, leave skin feeling supple and impart a fresh glow

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate

This ferment filtrate is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and sensitive because it hydrates without leaving a greasy feel and its antioxidant content is mild. Extremely reactive or allergy-prone skin may still want to proceed with care since any fermented ingredient contains trace bio-actives that could trigger a response in very delicate complexions.

The ingredient is made from chestnut skin and a food-grade fungus with no animal-derived additives so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly.

Current data shows no known risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetics. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the full ingredient list of every product to a healthcare provider before use just to be safe.

Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate does not make skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is not classed as a photosensitiser. Regular daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects that could occur even though most people will not notice any problems when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild redness or stinging
  • Itchiness or dryness in very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to chestnuts or mold derived ingredients
  • Rare fungal or yeast imbalance on the scalp if the product is left on and not preserved correctly

If you notice any discomfort swelling or persistent irritation while using a product that contains this ferment filtrate stop using it immediately and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0

Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate is a water-light ferment packed with amino acids, sugars and antioxidants rather than heavy oils or waxes that can clog pores. It absorbs quickly, leaves no greasy residue and does not contain fatty acids known to trap sebum, so it earns a non-comedogenic score of 0.

This makes it suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. As always the overall formula matters, so look at the full ingredient list if congestion is a concern.

Because it is mainly a hydrating and soothing ingredient it can even be helpful in calming the surface of blemish-prone skin, especially when paired with lightweight gels or essences.

Summary

Aspergillus/Castanea Crenata Pellicle Ferment Extract Filtrate conditions skin and hair by delivering humectant sugars that pull in moisture, amino acids that support a smooth feel and chestnut-derived antioxidants that fend off oxidative stress. On hair it forms a sheer film that tames frizz and boosts shine while on skin it helps maintain a supple barrier and a healthy glow.

Though not a household name the ingredient is quietly popular in Korean beauty products and is starting to show up in global formulations that focus on fermented actives and gentle hydration.

Current safety data and practical experience rate it as low risk for most users with only rare sensitivity issues reported. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product that features this ferment filtrate to be sure it agrees with you.

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