Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract?

Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract comes from sorghum, a drought-resistant grain that has long been used for food and traditional brewing. When sorghum is fermented with two friendly microorganisms, Aspergillus and Pichia, the process leaves behind a nutrient-rich residue called the “lees.” Cosmetic chemists collect these lees and gently extract their water-soluble compounds, which include amino acids, peptides, organic acids and natural antioxidants. The result is a silky liquid that can be blended into skin care formulas.

Fermented ingredients started gaining popularity in Asian beauty products in the early 2000s because the fermentation step can break down large plant molecules into smaller components that are easier for skin to use. This particular extract followed that trend as formulators looked for plant-based alternatives to synthetic antioxidants. Its rise was helped along by the clean beauty movement, which favors ingredients that come from simple, food-grade processes like fermentation.

Manufacturing begins with a mash of cooked sorghum grains. Aspergillus and Pichia cultures are added and the mixture is left to ferment under controlled temperature and humidity. After several days the fermented mash is pressed or filtered to separate the liquid from the solid lees. The lees are then steeped in water or a mild solvent, filtered again for purity and finally concentrated to create the cosmetic-grade extract.

You will most often see Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract in hydrating sheet masks, antioxidant serums, daily moisturizers and anti-aging creams. It can also appear in soothing after-sun gels and brightening essences where formulators want a gentle botanical boost.

Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fermented grain extract supports skin health in two main ways

  • Antioxidant: Fermentation concentrates natural phenolic compounds that mop up free radicals generated by UV light and pollution. By lowering oxidative stress the extract helps slow the look of premature aging such as fine lines dullness and uneven tone
  • Skin conditioning: The mix of amino acids peptides and sugars attracts moisture and supports the skin barrier so the surface feels softer smoother and better hydrated after application

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract

This fermented grain extract is mild enough for most skin types including dry, normal and combination skins. Oily and acne-prone users usually tolerate it as well since the ingredient is lightweight and water based, not greasy. Highly sensitive or reactive skin can still benefit but may prefer formulas with lower percentages to avoid overstimulation from the natural acids created during fermentation.

The extract is derived entirely from plant material and microorganisms with no animal by-products, which makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No data suggest that the ingredient poses a special risk during pregnancy or while nursing. That said this is not medical advice so anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products.

Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract does not heighten sun sensitivity, so users do not need to take extra precautions beyond their usual daily sunscreen.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract can vary from person to person. The following list covers potential effects that are possible yet unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated and preserved.

  • Redness or flushing if skin is very sensitive to fermentation by-products
  • Mild stinging or tingling on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to sorghum or yeast derivatives
  • Rare breakout flare-ups if the formula includes comedogenic companion ingredients
  • Spoilage-related irritation if a product is improperly preserved or used past its shelf life

If irritation or another adverse effect appears discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5

Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract is a lightweight water solubilized liquid that contains no heavy oils or waxes known to clog pores. Its primary components are amino acids, small peptides, organic acids and water-friendly antioxidants, all of which rinse off easily and do not build up inside follicles. For that reason it sits at the lowest end of the comedogenic scale.

The extract is therefore generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

Keep in mind that a finished product’s pore-clogging potential depends on the whole formula. If the serum or cream also includes richer emollients like coconut oil a breakout could still occur despite the extract itself being non-comedogenic.

Summary

Aspergillus/Pichia/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract acts as both an antioxidant and a skin-conditioning agent. Fermentation concentrates phenolic compounds that neutralize free radicals while breaking down sorghum proteins into moisturising amino acids and peptides that help strengthen the skin barrier. Together these actions support a smoother brighter complexion.

The ingredient enjoys moderate popularity, especially in K-beauty style essences and masks where brands highlight fermented botanicals. It has not yet reached the mainstream status of hyaluronic acid or niacinamide but interest is growing among consumers who prefer plant derived actives.

Safety studies and real-world use show the extract to be low risk for most skin types with only rare reports of sensitivity. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a quick patch test first to confirm personal compatibility.

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