Aspergillus/Rhinacanthus Nasutus Leaf/Rice Ferment Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Rhinacanthus Nasutus Leaf/Rice Ferment Filtrate?

Aspergillus/Rhinacanthus Nasutus Leaf/Rice Ferment Filtrate is a skin care ingredient created by fermenting dried leaves of the Thai medicinal plant Rhinacanthus nasutus together with rice grains using the fungus Aspergillus. During fermentation the microorganism breaks down plant and rice components into smaller molecules like amino acids, sugars, peptides and organic acids. These lightweight compounds are prized for drawing water into the skin and supporting a smooth barrier.

Traditional Asian beauty rituals have long relied on rice water and herbal extracts for soft radiant skin. Modern formulators began exploring controlled fermentation in the early 2000s to amplify these age old benefits, and combining Rhinacanthus with rice offered a novel antioxidant rich brew. Once fermentation is complete the mixture is filtered to remove solids, leaving a clear nutrient packed filtrate that is easy to blend into contemporary products.

You will most often spot this ferment in hydrating essences, lightweight moisturizers, sheet masks, soothing after sun gels and anti aging serums that aim to boost glow without heaviness.

Aspergillus/Rhinacanthus Nasutus Leaf/Rice Ferment Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ferment brings a one two punch of moisture attraction and skin nurturing properties to formulas

  • Humectant – pulls water from the environment and deeper skin layers toward the surface, keeping the complexion plump and dewy while helping other actives spread more evenly
  • Skin Conditioning – deposits vitamins, antioxidants and amino acids that soften rough patches, support a healthy barrier and leave skin feeling silky

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Rhinacanthus Nasutus Leaf/Rice Ferment Filtrate

This ferment is lightweight and water based so it generally suits dry, normal, combination and oily skin alike. Because it is free of heavy oils and contains soothing plant compounds it can also be a gentle option for sensitive or redness prone complexions. People with very reactive skin should still start slowly in case the natural acids formed during fermentation feel tingly.

The ingredient is plant and microbe derived with no animal by products, making it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.

No specific safety issues have been flagged for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this filtrate is used in topical cosmetics. That said every pregnancy is unique so this information is not medical advice and expecting or nursing mothers should show the full product ingredient list to their doctor before adding it to a routine.

Aspergillus/Rhinacanthus Nasutus Leaf/Rice Ferment Filtrate does not increase photosensitivity, though sunscreen is always recommended for daily protection.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any skincare ingredient differ from person to person. The following points outline potential side effects but most users will not experience them when the product is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild stinging or tingling, especially on freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
  • Redness or irritation in very sensitive individuals due to natural fermentation acids
  • Allergic contact dermatitis triggered by plant metabolites or fungal proteins
  • Rare breakout flare if someone is extremely prone to fungal acne and the formula includes additional ferment derived ingredients that feed Malassezia yeast

If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Aspergillus/Rhinacanthus Nasutus Leaf/Rice Ferment Filtrate is water based and contains primarily small humectant molecules such as sugars amino acids and organic acids, none of which sit heavily on the skin or obstruct pores. It lacks lipids and long-chain fatty acids that typically contribute to comedogenicity, so the risk of clogging is considered negligible.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

The only caveat is that the overall formula matters; if the ferment is paired with rich oils or waxes the finished product’s pore-clogging potential could rise, but that would be due to those other ingredients rather than the filtrate itself.

Summary

Aspergillus/Rhinacanthus Nasutus Leaf/Rice Ferment Filtrate acts mainly as a humectant and skin conditioning agent. Fermentation breaks down rice and Rhinacanthus plant material into lightweight sugars, peptides and organic acids that bind water, boost surface hydration and deliver a soft supple feel. Antioxidant plant metabolites add an extra touch of protection against daily environmental stress.

While not yet a household name the ingredient is gaining traction in Asian beauty products, essences and gel moisturizers thanks to its featherlight texture and multitasking benefits.

Overall safety is considered high, with very low comedogenic risk and no known systemic concerns. As with any new skincare ingredient it is sensible to perform a quick patch test to confirm personal compatibility before full-face use.

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