What Is Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Chicory Root Ferment Lees Extract?
Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Chicory Root Ferment Lees Extract comes from chicory roots (Cichorium intybus) that have been fermented with two well-known microorganisms, Aspergillus and Saccharomyces. After fermentation, the leftover residue—often called the lees—is collected and further processed to obtain the final extract. This material is naturally rich in sugars, amino acids, short-chain peptides, minerals and a variety of bioactive metabolites produced during fermentation, all of which give the ingredient its skin-friendly reputation.
Fermentation has a long history in beauty formulas, especially in East Asian skincare where the process is prized for boosting nutrient availability and creating gentle, skin-compatible compounds. Chicory itself has been valued in traditional wellness practices for centuries, but its leap into cosmetics happened more recently when formulators began exploring plant roots as renewable sources of prebiotic-like sugars. By pairing chicory with yeast and mold species already used in food fermentation, manufacturers discovered an extract that could help soften and replenish skin.
The production process starts with cleaned and milled chicory roots. These are mixed with water, sterilized and inoculated with controlled cultures of Aspergillus and Saccharomyces. Over several days the microbes break down plant fibers and release skin-beneficial molecules. Once fermentation is complete, the mixture is filtered, leaving behind solid lees. These lees are washed, gently dried and extracted with water or a mild solvent, then concentrated and preserved for cosmetic use.
Because of its conditioning profile, the extract shows up in a range of leave-on and rinse-off products: hydrating serums, gel and sheet masks, daily moisturizers, barrier-supporting creams, soothing after-sun treatments and anti-aging lotions that aim to improve skin texture.
Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Chicory Root Ferment Lees Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skincare formulas this fermented chicory extract is valued for one main role.
Skin conditioning: The blend of natural sugars, amino acids and small peptides helps attract and hold moisture, leaving skin feeling softer and more supple. At the same time the extract can support the skin’s barrier function, which may reduce dryness and visible roughness. Many users appreciate its lightweight, non-sticky feel that layers well under other actives and makeup.
Who Can Use Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Chicory Root Ferment Lees Extract
This ferment comes with a low risk of irritation so it is generally suitable for dry, normal, combination and even sensitive skin. Oily and acne-prone complexions can also use it because the ingredient is lightweight and water based, though extremely oily skin may prefer it in gel formulas rather than rich creams.
The extract is plant derived and made through microbial fermentation with no animal-sourced additives so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
No data suggest that the ingredient poses a special risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when used topically at the low levels found in cosmetics. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices past a qualified doctor to be safe.
It does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with common sunscreen filters. Standard daytime SPF habits are still important but there is no extra need to shelter skin because of this ingredient.
The extract is free of added fragrance and essential oils, contains only trace levels of naturally occurring alcohols from fermentation and is compatible with most other skincare actives, making it an easy add-on to nearly any routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Chicory Root Ferment Lees Extract differ from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated correctly and used as directed.
- Transient redness or mild stinging may appear on very reactive skin shortly after application but usually fades within minutes
- Allergic contact dermatitis is rare yet possible in people sensitive to fermentation byproducts or trace proteins from the microbes
- Fungal or yeast overgrowth on the skin is considered extremely unlikely because finished cosmetic products are preserved and the microbes are no longer alive but those with chronic fungal skin issues should still monitor their skin
- Interactions with strong exfoliating acids or retinoids could increase temporary dryness if multiple layers are applied without adequate moisturizer
If any unexpected burning swelling or persistent irritation occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1 (very low). Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Chicory Root Ferment Lees Extract is water soluble and contains virtually no heavy oils or waxes that could clog pores. Its small sugars and peptides are quickly absorbed or rinsed away in leave-on and rinse-off products so they do not build up inside follicles. Because of this light profile it is generally fine for skin that breaks out easily. Only when the extract is blended into a very thick occlusive formula could the overall product start to feel pore-blocking, but the extract itself remains low risk.
Bottom line: suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
If you are worried about malassezia-related issues keep in mind that the fermentation microbes are removed and the finished ingredient does not feed fungal acne according to current data.
Summary
Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Chicory Root Ferment Lees Extract is a fermented chicory root ingredient used mainly for skin conditioning. Its natural mix of humectant sugars, barrier-supporting amino acids and bioactive peptides draws moisture to the skin, smooths texture and helps keep the surface resilient. These benefits make it a handy add-on in hydrating serums, soothing gels and daily creams.
While not as famous as hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, the extract has a steady following among fans of fermentation-focused or K-beauty inspired formulas and its popularity is growing as brands look for gentle plant-based hydrators.
Topical safety is considered high with low irritation and very low comedogenic potential. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product containing this extract before applying it all over the face.