Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Prunus Mume Fruit/Rice Ferment Lees Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Prunus Mume Fruit/Rice Ferment Lees Extract?

Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Prunus Mume Fruit/Rice Ferment Lees Extract is produced by fermenting Japanese apricot (Prunus mume) and rice with two well-known microorganisms, Aspergillus and Saccharomyces. During fermentation the fruit sugars and rice starches break down into skin-loving compounds such as amino acids, organic acids, peptides and natural moisturising sugars. The finished extract is then filtered, leaving a lightweight, water-based liquid that blends easily into creams, serums and hair products.

Fermented rice and fruit have long been part of Asian beauty rituals. Sake brewers were known for soft youthful hands, while pickled plum has been used as a skin tonic in traditional care. Modern cosmetic chemists combined these time-honoured ingredients with controlled fermentation to create a consistent extract that delivers the same benefits batch after batch.

The ingredient is most often found in hydrating or brightening face masks, lightweight moisturisers, anti-ageing essences, scalp tonics and leave-in hair treatments. Its mild nature also makes it popular in products aimed at sensitive or dry skin.

Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Prunus Mume Fruit/Rice Ferment Lees Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking ferment can improve both skin and hair feel in a single formula.

  • Hair Conditioning: The amino acids formed during fermentation coat the hair shaft, smoothing rough cuticles so strands feel softer and look shinier. This can also help reduce static and make detangling easier.
  • Humectant: Natural sugars and peptides draw water from the air into the upper layers of skin, boosting immediate hydration. This helps plump fine lines and keeps skin comfortable throughout the day.
  • Skin Conditioning: The blend of fruit acids, minerals and amino acids supports a healthy skin barrier. Regular use can leave skin feeling smoother, brighter and more resilient to external stressors.

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Prunus Mume Fruit/Rice Ferment Lees Extract

This gentle ferment suits most skin types. Dry and mature skin enjoy the extra moisture it pulls in while normal and combination skin benefit from its light texture that never feels greasy. Even sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the fermentation process breaks large molecules into smaller soothing ones. Extremely oily or acne-prone skin can also use it but should watch for any increase in breakouts since the natural sugars may feed surface yeast in rare cases.

The extract is sourced from rice and Japanese apricot then processed with microorganisms, none of which are animal derived, so it is considered friendly for both vegans and vegetarians.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is a mild topical ingredient with no known hormonal activity. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full product label to a doctor before adding it to a routine.

The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and there is no evidence it causes photosensitivity. Normal daily sun protection is still a good idea to keep skin healthy.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Prunus Mume Fruit/Rice Ferment Lees Extract differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated.

  • Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
  • Itching or rash in people allergic to rice, yeast or fruit extracts
  • Temporary increase in surface breakouts if skin is prone to fungal acne
  • Contact dermatitis in rare cases of intolerance to fermentation by-products

If any discomfort or persistent reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

This extract is a lightweight water based ferment rich in amino acids, small peptides and natural sugars rather than oils or heavy waxes that clog pores. Any residual rice lipids are present at trace levels so the risk of blocking follicles is very low. The only reason it is not rated 0 is that the sugars can, in rare cases, provide a food source for surface yeast which may aggravate fungal acne in very reactive skin.

Overall it is usually suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts.

If you use several rich products alongside it be mindful of total layer thickness, as even low clogging ingredients can build up when combined.

Summary

Aspergillus/Saccharomyces/Prunus Mume Fruit/Rice Ferment Lees Extract hydrates skin, conditions hair and supports a resilient skin barrier. It does this by supplying humectant sugars that pull in moisture, amino acids and peptides that smooth hair cuticles and fruit acids that gently refine skin texture.

Once confined to niche Japanese and Korean formulas, the ingredient is gaining traction worldwide as more brands explore fermented actives for gentle effectiveness.

Safety data shows it is a mild non sensitising ferment suitable for almost all skin types with a very low comedogenic risk, yet every skin is unique so patch testing any new product is still a smart move.

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