Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract?

Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract comes from sorghum, a hardy cereal grain that has long been used for food and drink around the world. When the grain is fermented with the naturally occurring fungus Aspergillus, it breaks down into a nutrient rich mash. After fermentation the leftover solid material, called the lees, is carefully filtered and the water soluble parts are collected to create the extract used in cosmetics.

Chemically the extract is a mix of amino acids, small peptides, sugars, organic acids and antioxidant compounds that form during fermentation. These skin friendly molecules can help protect against free radicals and support the skin and hair’s natural moisture balance.

The idea of putting fermented ingredients on the skin grew out of traditional Asian beauty rituals where sake, rice or grain lees were prized for their skin smoothing effects. As modern formulators started exploring probiotic and postbiotic skincare, sorghum lees offered a sustainable plant based option that brings similar benefits without strong odor or color.

Today you can spot Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract in a variety of products such as hydrating toners, anti aging serums, sheet masks, leave in hair conditioners, scalp tonics and lightweight moisturizers. Its mild scent, clear appearance and water solubility make it easy to blend into both rinse off and leave on formulas.

Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking ferment brings several helpful actions to beauty products

  • Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure and pollution which can contribute to dullness and premature lines. Adding it to a formula can support the skin’s own defense system and help preserve color and scent sensitive ingredients
  • Hair conditioning: The amino acids and sugars form a light film on strands that smoothes the cuticle, boosts softness and reduces static without weighing hair down. It can also soothe the scalp thanks to its gentle pH
  • Skin conditioning: Works as a humectant drawing moisture into the skin, leaving it feeling supple and refreshed. Regular use can improve overall texture so skin looks more even and healthy

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract

This ferment is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its humectant nature gives thirsty skin a moisture boost while the lightweight texture does not leave an occlusive layer that could overwhelm oilier complexions. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because it has a mildly acidic pH similar to that of healthy skin and contains no added fragrance or essential oils. Those with a known allergy to sorghum or mold derivatives should avoid it as a precaution.

The ingredient is plant based and produced through microbial fermentation so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian preferences. No animal products or byproducts are used at any stage of production.

Current research shows no specific risks linked to topical use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a doctor to be on the safe side.

Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract is not known to increase sun sensitivity so it can be used day or night without special UV precautions beyond normal sunscreen habits. It plays well with most other cosmetic ingredients and does not interfere with retinoids or exfoliating acids.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract can vary from person to person. The points below cover potential issues yet they are unlikely to occur for the average user when the ingredient has been formulated and preserved correctly.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Itching or small bumps due to an individual allergy to sorghum proteins or fungal ferment residues
  • Rare fungal or bacterial contamination if a DIY product is made without proper preservation
  • Interaction with leave on acids that could briefly raise tingling sensations

If any of these reactions appear stop use immediately and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5. Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract is a water based ferment rich in small, water soluble molecules rather than heavy oils or waxes that can clog pores. It absorbs quickly, leaves no greasy film and does not sit inside follicles, so it earns the lowest possible score.

That makes it a friendly option for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Because this extract is usually used at low percentages within a larger formula, its impact on pore clogging is minimal even when combined with richer ingredients. Of course, the overall pore friendliness of a product still depends on the rest of the recipe.

Summary

Aspergillus/Sorghum Bicolor Ferment Lees Extract works as an antioxidant, skin conditioner and hair conditioner. Fermentation packs the liquid with amino acids, peptides and sugars that mop up free radicals, draw water into skin and form a thin smoothing film on hair.

It is popping up more often in K beauty style toners, serums and scalp sprays but is still less mainstream than classic ferments like rice or kombucha. Those who like gentle, plant based actives are starting to notice it.

Topical use is considered very safe with low risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new cosmetic ingredient, do a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it to be sure your skin agrees.

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