Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate?

Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate comes from the peel of the tangerine plant, Citrus reticulata. The peels are rich in natural sugars, small amounts of fruit acids and plant antioxidants. To create the ingredient, producers first clean and grind the dried peels, then let the friendly fungus Aspergillus ferment the material in a controlled tank. During fermentation the microorganism breaks down large plant molecules into smaller, skin-friendly compounds while releasing added moisturising agents. After several days the mixture is filtered to remove solid pieces and microbes, leaving a clear liquid called a filtrate. This liquid is then refined and preserved for use in cosmetics.

Fermented plant extracts gained attention in the 1990s when Korean beauty brands looked for gentler alternatives to strong fruit acids. The idea was simple: fermentation could unlock the benefits of botanicals while reducing the risk of irritation. Over time the technique spread worldwide, and tangerine peel became popular because it is a by-product of the juice industry, making it both sustainable and affordable.

Today you will find Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate in leave-on and rinse-off hair conditioners, hydrating face masks, lightweight gel moisturisers, scalp tonics and anti-aging serums that aim to boost moisture without heaviness.

Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fermented filtrate earns its place in formulas thanks to two main jobs

  • Hair conditioning: The filtrate deposits a thin, smooth layer on hair strands that softens rough cuticles, makes detangling easier and adds a bit of natural shine without weighing hair down
  • Humectant: It attracts water from the air and binds it to the skin or hair surface, helping products deliver a fresh burst of lightweight hydration that can lessen dryness and improve overall feel

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate?

This ferment is gentle enough for most skin and scalp types. Dry and normal skin benefit the most thanks to its water-binding humectant action, while oily or combination skin can still enjoy the lightweight hydration because the filtrate is non-greasy and does not clog pores. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well since fermentation tends to reduce harsh plant compounds, though anyone with a known citrus allergy should proceed with caution as tangerine peel residues may remain.

The ingredient is plant-derived and the fermentation process involves the naturally occurring fungus Aspergillus, not animal products, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No data suggest that topical use poses a risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss new skincare products with a healthcare professional first.

Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate does not increase photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection habits are still recommended when using any cosmetic routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient has been properly formulated and preserved.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Itchy scalp or skin if an individual has a citrus or mold allergy
  • Contact dermatitis triggered by other formula components that ride along with the filtrate
  • Rare fungal contamination if a product has been stored improperly or is past its expiry date

If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 (non-comedogenic)

This filtrate is water based and contains almost no oils or waxy residues that could block pores. The fermentation process also breaks down larger plant molecules into smaller, lightweight compounds that rinse away easily. Because it sits lightly on the skin and hair without forming a heavy film it earns the lowest possible comedogenic score.

Suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts.

One extra point: comedogenicity can rise if the filtrate is blended with richer butters or silicones in a final formula, so check the full ingredient list of any product, not just the presence of this single ferment.

Summary

Aspergillus/Tangerine Peel Ferment Extract Filtrate acts mainly as a hair conditioner and humectant. Its small fermented molecules coat hair shafts for smoother cuticles and draw moisture to both skin and strands, giving a light hydrated feel without greasiness.

The ingredient sits in the niche space of fermented botanicals. It is fairly popular within K-beauty inspired lines and eco-conscious brands yet still less common than classic hydrators like glycerin.

Overall safety is considered high with low risk of irritation when used as directed. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to perform a quick patch test before full use to be on the safe side.

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