What Is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid, also called nonanedioic acid, is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in grains like wheat, rye and barley. Chemically it has nine carbon atoms with two carboxyl groups, giving it a balanced mix of oil-friendly and water-friendly parts that makes it useful for skin care. Interest in azelaic acid grew in the late 1970s when researchers noticed its gentle exfoliating effect on skin. Cosmetic chemists soon adopted it for leave-on products because it delivered visible brightness without the sting often linked to stronger acids.
Commercially, manufacturers create azelaic acid through the controlled oxidation of oleic acid, an abundant fatty acid sourced from vegetable oils. The result is a white, lightweight powder that dissolves well in water-based formulas and remains stable over a wide pH range.
Today you will spot azelaic acid in a variety of products such as brightening serums, lightweight gels, spot treatments, tone-perfecting creams, overnight masks and even gentle peels. Its mild nature lets formulators pair it with hydrating ingredients and antioxidants to craft well-rounded, everyday skin solutions.
Azelaic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care formulas azelaic acid serves two main roles that boost product performance and user experience.
- Buffering: It helps maintain a stable pH level in the finished product so active ingredients work at their ideal range and skin is less likely to feel irritated.
- Fragrance: While not a perfume on its own, azelaic acid can contribute a faint neutral scent that masks raw ingredient odors giving the final product a cleaner, more pleasant smell.
Who Can Use Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid suits most skin types including oily, acne prone and combination skin because it helps moderate excess oil while staying gentle. Normal and dry complexions can also benefit as it does not strip moisture yet provides light exfoliation. Extremely dry or compromised skin might feel a bit tight after use so pairing it with a rich moisturizer is wise. People with very sensitive skin often tolerate azelaic acid better than stronger acids but a slow introduction is still recommended.
The ingredient is produced from plant-based fatty acids and contains no animal derivatives so it is typically considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. Always check the finished product for additional non-vegan additives or animal testing policies if that is a concern.
Current research suggests topical azelaic acid is generally safe for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, but this is not medical advice. Anyone expecting or nursing should show the product label to their healthcare provider for personalized guidance.
Azelaic acid does not cause photosensitivity in the way that glycolic or retinoids can, yet daily sunscreen remains a smart habit for overall skin health. It can be layered with most other actives but start slowly if you already use potent exfoliants or retinoids to prevent cumulative irritation.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical azelaic acid differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects yet most users will not encounter them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild stinging or burning right after application
- Temporary redness or warmth in the treated area
- Light peeling or flaking especially around the nose and chin
- Dryness or a feeling of tight skin when applied in high concentrations
- Itching or the appearance of small bumps in sensitive individuals
- Rare hypopigmentation on very dark skin after prolonged overuse
- Irritation when combined with other strong exfoliants like benzoyl peroxide or high-percentage acids
If any of these effects persist or worsen discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5 – Non-comedogenic
Azelaic acid does not clog pores because its molecular structure is small enough to rinse away cleanly and it has keratolytic properties that actually help keep follicles clear. Studies and anecdotal reports show it can even reduce comedones over time. For this reason it is generally well suited to people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Unlike some fatty acids that form an occlusive film, azelaic acid stays water soluble in typical cosmetic concentrations so it leaves minimal residue. Formulators often choose it when they need an active that will not add to pore blockage, even in rich creams.
Summary
Azelaic acid works primarily as a buffering agent that steadies a formula’s pH and as a mild scent-masking component that softens any raw ingredient odors. Its amphiphilic nature lets it interact with both oil-loving and water-loving molecules, which keeps the final product balanced and pleasant to use.
The ingredient has grown in popularity over the past decade thanks to its gentle exfoliating side benefits that brighten tone without the sharp sting of stronger acids. While it still flies a bit under the radar compared with buzzier actives like vitamin C or retinol, more brands now spotlight it in serums, spot gels and tone-correcting creams.
Overall safety is high with few serious reports of irritation when used as directed. That said skin is personal so it is always smart to patch test any new product containing azelaic acid before working it into a regular routine.