What Is Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27?
Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27 is a hybrid molecule created when azelaic acid, a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley and wheat, is chemically linked to a small two-amino-acid chain known as Dipeptide-27. By merging the brightening and calming traits of azelaic acid with the skin-friendly properties of a peptide, chemists produced an ingredient that is both effective and gentle on most skin types.
The material first appeared in cosmetic research labs about a decade ago as brands searched for milder alternatives to strong exfoliating acids. The process involves a controlled reaction that binds the azelaic acid to the dipeptide, followed by careful purification so the final powder is stable, water dispersible and easy to add to creams and serums.
Today Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27 shows up in a range of products: brightening masks, anti aging lotions, daily moisturizers, targeted spot treatments, redness-reducing serums and post-sun soothing gels. Its multitasking nature lets formulators address uneven tone, dryness and sensitivity in a single step.
Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care formulas Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27 pulls triple duty by offering the following benefits:
- Skin Conditioning: boosts overall softness, improves suppleness and helps even out texture so skin looks smoother and healthier
- Emollient: fills in tiny surface gaps, reduces rough patches and leaves a light silky feel that enhances the spreadability of creams and lotions
- Skin Protecting: creates a thin breathable film that limits water loss and offers a mild shield against everyday environmental stress
Who Can Use Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by most skin types including sensitive, oily, combination, normal and dry skin. Its peptide component softens the potentially irritating edge of azelaic acid so even redness-prone users often find it comfortable. Those with an allergy to azelaic acid or specific peptides should avoid it as they could experience irritation.
Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27 is produced through a lab-controlled reaction that involves no animal-derived raw materials making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Current research has not flagged any issues for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at cosmetic concentrations. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of their products to a qualified healthcare professional before use just to be safe.
The molecule is not known to cause photosensitivity so it can be applied morning or night without increasing the skin’s vulnerability to sunburn. Standard daytime sunscreen use is still recommended as part of a complete routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27 differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects that could occur although they are uncommon when the ingredient has been properly formulated and applied.
- Mild stinging or tingling immediately after application
- Transient redness especially on very sensitive skin
- Local dryness or flaking if the formula is highly concentrated
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with specific peptide or azelaic acid sensitivities
- Interactions with high-strength exfoliating acids that might lead to over-exfoliation
If any persistent burning swelling or rash develops stop using the product and consult a dermatologist or healthcare provider for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27 scores a 1 because its molecular size and water dispersible nature allow it to sit lightly on skin without blocking pores. While it can create a thin protective film, the layer is breathable and easily removed with normal cleansing, so buildup is unlikely. Its peptide link further reduces the risk of pore congestion compared with heavier oils or waxes.
That low score makes the ingredient generally suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts.
No data suggests it exacerbates fungal acne, and it is usually paired with lightweight bases that keep overall formulations non-occlusive.
Summary
Azelaoyl Dipeptide-27 acts as a skin conditioner, emollient and protector. It smooths rough texture by filling micro-gaps, softens the surface through light moisturisation and shields skin from everyday moisture loss with a breathable film. The azelaic acid portion calms and brightens, while the dipeptide helps skin tolerate the ingredient comfortably.
Although not a household name, it is gaining traction in targeted serums and moisturisers aimed at redness, dull tone and mild dryness because it multitasks without irritation.
Current safety data shows a low risk profile for topical use when formulated at standard cosmetic levels. As with any new product it is smart to patch test first to be sure your skin agrees with the full formula.