What Is Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Propanediol Citrate Crosspolymer?
Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Propanediol Citrate Crosspolymer is a specialty polymer created by linking behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and 1,3-propanediol with citric acid. The fatty alcohols come from plant oils such as rapeseed or coconut, while 1,3-propanediol is usually sourced from corn sugar fermentation. Citric acid, found in citrus fruits, serves as the natural crosslinker that joins these building blocks into a larger three-dimensional network. The result is a wax-like solid that melts easily into emulsions and gives formulas a smooth feel.
The idea of using fatty alcohol polymers in cosmetics took off in the early 2000s when formulators wanted alternatives to petroleum-based thickeners. By blending plant-derived alcohols with citric acid chemists discovered a way to create a stable structure that can condition skin without a greasy afterfeel. Since then this crosspolymer has been adopted in modern clean-beauty and luxury lines alike.
Manufacturing involves heating the fatty alcohols with 1,3-propanediol then adding citric acid under controlled conditions. The mixture reacts to form ester links and builds a branched polymer. Once cooled it is milled into fine flakes or pastilles that disperse easily in oil phases.
You will spot Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Propanediol Citrate Crosspolymer in moisturizers, anti-aging creams, creamy masks, sun care lotions, balms and rich body butters. It is also used in color cosmetics like foundations and lip products where a cushiony glide is valued.
Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Propanediol Citrate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings a single key function to a formula which is skin conditioning. By forming a lightweight film on the surface it helps lock in moisture and leaves skin feeling velvety rather than oily. Its waxy structure also adds body to creams so they spread evenly and stay stable over time, improving both the performance and the sensory experience of the product.
Who Can Use Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Propanediol Citrate Crosspolymer
This cushioning polymer is gentle enough for nearly all skin types including dry, normal, combination and sensitive skin. Its lightweight film helps reduce transepidermal water loss without clogging pores so even those with oily or acne-prone skin usually tolerate it well. People with a known allergy to fatty alcohols should approach with caution as the ingredient is built from long-chain alcohols.
The raw materials come from plant oil and corn sugar fermentation so the finished polymer is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived components or animal testing are involved in its standard production.
Current cosmetic safety data show no reproductive or developmental concerns linked to topical use. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals are generally considered able to use products containing this polymer but this is not medical advice and anyone in these groups should review all skincare choices with a qualified healthcare provider.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and will not interfere with sunscreen filters. It is free of fragrance and essential oils which makes it a good option for users who react to scented formulas.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Propanediol Citrate Crosspolymer vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects but most users will not notice any of them when the ingredient is properly formulated in a product.
- Mild redness or stinging in highly sensitive skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to fatty alcohols
- Temporary pore congestion in very oil-rich skin types if used in heavy layers
- Rare folliculitis on occlusion-prone areas such as the back or chest
If any of these effects appear stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
This polymer is built from long-chain fatty alcohols yet its large crosslinked structure sits mostly on the surface instead of penetrating pores. Studies on similar fatty alcohol crosspolymers show a very low tendency to trap sebum or feed acne-causing bacteria. Most formulas include it at modest levels which further limits clogging potential.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in the vast majority of cases.
Keep in mind that final comedogenicity depends on the entire formula. Very rich or occlusive products containing heavy oils, waxes or butters could still cause congestion even if this specific ingredient is low on the scale.
Summary
Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Propanediol Citrate Crosspolymer is mainly a skin-conditioning agent that improves moisture retention, softens rough patches and gives creams a smooth cushioned glide. Its waxy matrix also thickens and stabilises emulsions so textures stay elegant from jar to skin.
While not the most famous name on an ingredient list it has earned steady popularity with formulators looking for plant-based alternatives to silicone elastomers. You will find it sprinkled through modern moisturisers, sunscreens, balms and even some colour cosmetics.
Current safety data flag no serious risks and incidences of irritation are rare. As with any new skincare product a small patch test on the inner forearm is a sensible step before full-face use.