Berberis Aquifolium Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
Share:
Inside this article:

All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Berberis Aquifolium Extract?

Berberis Aquifolium Extract comes from the above ground parts of Berberis aquifolium, a shrub better known as Oregon grape. The plant is naturally rich in alkaloids such as berberine and hydrastine plus small amounts of tannins and flavonoids. Early settlers in North America applied crushed Oregon grape to help soothe rough or blemished skin, a folk use that eventually caught the attention of modern formulators looking for plant based skin conditioners. To produce the cosmetic grade extract, harvested leaves and young stems are cleaned, dried then steeped in a water or water-glycol blend. The liquid is filtered, concentrated and preserved, giving a fluid or powder that can be blended into finished products. You will usually see Berberis Aquifolium Extract in serums, daily moisturizers, calming masks, anti-blemish spot treatments, toners and all-in-one lotions that aim to refresh and smooth the skin.

Berberis Aquifolium Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This botanical is valued in formulas for its skin conditioning ability. By helping the surface of the skin feel softer and look healthier it supports overall skin comfort and can improve the feel of both lightweight and richer products.

Who Can Use Berberis Aquifolium Extract

Most skin types tolerate this plant extract well. Its lightweight water-based profile suits normal, dry, combination and oily skin because it offers conditioning without leaving a greasy film. Sensitive skin usually does fine, although anyone highly reactive to botanical alkaloids may prefer a different option.

The extract is vegan and vegetarian friendly since it is sourced solely from plant material and the common solvents used for extraction are not animal derived.

No data show specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Berberis Aquifolium Extract is used topically at the low levels found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products.

The ingredient does not make skin more prone to sunburn and has no known photosensitising effect.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Berberis Aquifolium Extract differ from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated.

  • Mild redness or stinging – can occur in very sensitive or compromised skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis – rare sensitivity to the plant’s alkaloids may trigger itching or a rash
  • Discoloration of very light fabrics – the natural yellow pigments in the extract could stain clothing if a product is not fully absorbed

If irritation or any other unexpected reaction develops stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms persist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Berberis Aquifolium Extract is produced in a water or water-glycol base and contains almost no fatty acids or heavy waxes that could sit inside pores. The alkaloids and tannins it carries are lightweight molecules that rinse away easily, so they do not add to surface oil or block follicles. For these reasons formulators view it as non-comedogenic.

Because of this low rating it is generally suitable for people who break out or get clogged pores. If a product with this extract still causes bumps it is usually the other ingredients at fault, not the Oregon grape itself.

Keep in mind that comedogenicity can rise if the extract is paired with richer butters or occlusive oils so always judge the full formula, not the single ingredient.

Summary

Berberis Aquifolium Extract’s main job in skincare is to condition the skin, helping it feel softer smoother and more comfortable. The natural alkaloids support a balanced surface while the gentle tannins can give a mild astringent feel that leaves skin refreshed. Thanks to its water-soluble nature it slips easily into light serums and lotions without weighing them down.

The extract is still a bit of an under-the-radar ingredient compared with superstar botanicals like aloe or green tea, yet it shows up in a steady stream of calming toners blemish gels and multitasking moisturizers aimed at keeping skin clear and comfortable.

Safety data and long-time folk use both point to a low risk profile when the extract is used as directed in cosmetics. That said everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product that lists Berberis Aquifolium Extract before moving to full-face use.

Was this article helpful?
More from Glooshi:
ADVERTISEMENT
Get all our top headlines in beauty.
Delivered right to your inbox each week. Zero spam, all goodness, opt-out at anytime.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Get the latest beauty news, top product recommendations & brand-exclusive discount codes direct to your inbox.
Send good feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Send bad feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Search