What Is Betulinic Acid?
Betulinic acid is a naturally occurring compound found mainly in the bark of birch trees, especially the white birch that grows across North America, Europe and parts of Asia. Chemically it is a triterpenoid that scientists label as lup-20(29)-en-28-oic acid, 3-hydroxy-, (3β)-. Although that name sounds complex, the takeaway is that it belongs to a large family of plant molecules known for supporting skin comfort.
The ingredient first caught researchers’ attention in the 1990s during studies on plant extracts. As interest in plant based skincare grew, formulators noticed that betulinic acid could soften and soothe skin without the heaviness of some oils. This opened the door for its use in cosmetics aimed at calming stressed or mature skin.
Commercially, betulinic acid is produced by extracting birch bark chips with food grade solvents, then purifying the concentrate through filtration and crystallization. The result is a white to off-white powder that blends well with both waterless and emulsified formulas.
You are most likely to see it in leave-on products such as anti aging serums, moisturizers, night creams, masks and post-sun treatments. Some brands also add it to spot treatments and gentle exfoliating tonics to leave skin feeling smooth and comfortable.
Betulinic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skincare formulas betulinic acid serves one main role: skin conditioning. It helps the product leave skin feeling softer, more supple and well cared for. By reinforcing the skin’s surface it can reduce the look of dryness or flakiness and support an overall healthy tone.
Who Can Use Betulinic Acid
Betulinic acid is generally suitable for all major skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin. Its lightweight conditioning effect makes it a good choice for those who find heavier emollients clogging, while its soothing nature helps calm dryness or tightness in sensitive skin. People with extremely oily or acne-prone skin may wish to monitor how their skin responds since texture preferences vary, but the ingredient itself is not known to be pore clogging.
Because betulinic acid is plant derived from birch bark it aligns with vegan and vegetarian standards provided the rest of the formula is free from animal sourced additives. Brands that emphasize cruelty-free production often highlight this point.
There are no specific studies showing harm from topical betulinic acid during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Still, data are limited so this information is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing mothers should show any product containing the ingredient to their doctor to confirm it suits their personal situation.
The compound does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not heighten the skin’s reaction to sunlight. Daily sunscreen use is still encouraged for broad skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical betulinic acid can vary. The following list covers potential side effects, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Skin redness or flushing in sensitive individuals
- Mild stinging or warming sensation during initial applications, often temporary
- Dry patches or tightness if layered with strong exfoliating acids or retinoids
- Contact dermatitis in the rare event of an allergy to birch-derived compounds
- Eye irritation if the product migrates too close to the lash line
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Betulinic acid has a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. The molecule is a lightweight triterpenoid that does not leave an oily film or trap dead skin cells in pores, which keeps the clogging risk low. It is therefore generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, though personal responses can differ. Because the ingredient is often used at low concentrations and is usually paired with non-greasy carriers, it rarely contributes to congestion even in combination or oily skin types.
Summary
Betulinic acid is valued in cosmetics for conditioning the skin, helping it feel softer, smoother and more comfortable. It works by supporting the skin surface so moisture loss is minimised and flakiness is less noticeable. Although effective, it remains a niche ingredient compared with big names like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, so you will mostly find it in specialty or botanical-focused formulas rather than on every store shelf.
Topically, the compound is considered safe for most users, with only occasional reports of mild redness or irritation. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to do a small patch test before full use to ensure your skin reacts well.