Betulinyl Methoxy Peg-22 Carboxylate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Betulinyl Methoxy Peg-22 Carboxylate?

Betulinyl Methoxy PEG-22 Carboxylate is a modified form of betulin, a natural compound found in the bark of birch trees. Chemists first isolated betulin centuries ago because of its soothing properties, but its poor water solubility limited use in modern skincare. To fix that, scientists attached a short chain of polyethylene glycol units (PEG-22), added a methoxy group, and introduced a carboxylate. This process, called ethoxylation, turns the waxy plant molecule into a water-loving ingredient that blends smoothly in creams and lotions.

Manufacturing starts with sustainably harvested birch bark. Betulin is extracted, purified, oxidized to introduce a carboxyl group, then reacted with methoxy-terminated PEG molecules under controlled heat and pH. The result is a silky, off-white powder that dissolves easily in both water and oil phases, giving formulators flexibility.

You will most often spot Betulinyl Methoxy PEG-22 Carboxylate in lightweight moisturizers, hydrating serums, sheet masks, after-sun gels, and anti-aging creams where it helps soften the skin and support overall comfort.

Betulinyl Methoxy Peg-22 Carboxylate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare formulas Betulinyl Methoxy PEG-22 Carboxylate is valued for one main role.

Skin conditioning: It forms a breathable layer that helps the skin hold moisture, making the surface feel smoother and more supple. Its mild nature suits sensitive complexions, and its balanced water-oil affinity lets it spread evenly without a heavy or greasy feel, improving the texture of lotions and gels.

Who Can Use Betulinyl Methoxy Peg-22 Carboxylate

This ingredient is considered friendly for most skin types. Dry and normal skin benefit most from its moisture boosting qualities while combination and oily skin appreciate its lightweight finish that does not leave a greasy film. Highly reactive or compromised skin usually tolerates it well because it is non alcoholic and free of common sensitizers. There are no known reasons it would be unsuitable for any particular skin type although, as with any cosmetic ingredient, individual tolerance can vary.

The compound is sourced from birch bark then chemically modified, which means it is plant derived and contains no animal based substances so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian preferences.

No specific warnings exist for pregnancy or breastfeeding. The molecule does not penetrate deeply or interfere with hormonal pathways, yet this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products just to be safe.

Betulinyl Methoxy PEG-22 Carboxylate has not been shown to cause photosensitivity so it will not make the skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daily sunscreen use is still recommended for general skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Betulinyl Methoxy PEG-22 Carboxylate vary from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects although most users will not experience them when the ingredient is correctly formulated in a finished product.

  • Mild redness or irritation if the skin is extremely sensitive
  • Transient stinging when applied to freshly exfoliated or broken skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases where a person is allergic to birch derived compounds or PEGs
  • Follicular congestion if used in an overly rich formulation on very oily or acne prone skin

If any negative reaction occurs discontinue use immediately and consult a medical professional for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Betulinyl Methoxy PEG-22 Carboxylate is largely water compatible thanks to its PEG chain so it does not build up inside pores the way heavier oils or waxes can. Formulas that feature it are usually light and quick spreading which further reduces the chance of clogging. Its rating lands at 1 rather than 0 because any film-forming ingredient could in theory trap debris if used in an overly occlusive product on very oily skin.

Overall it is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin when included in balanced formulations.

No extra concerns have been flagged by research groups or regulatory bodies regarding pore blockage from this molecule.

Summary

Betulinyl Methoxy PEG-22 Carboxylate is a plant-derived skin conditioner that softens the surface, supports moisture retention and improves the glide of creams, gels and serums. Its PEG-22 segment lets it dissolve in both water and oil so it can sit at the interface and create a thin flexible layer that leaves skin feeling smooth without heaviness.

The ingredient is still a niche player compared with household names like hyaluronic acid yet formulators appreciate its gentle nature and versatility which is sparking gradual growth in modern hydrating products.

Current safety data show a low risk of irritation, sensitization or pore blockage for most users. As with any new skincare addition it is wise to perform a small patch test first so you can confirm personal compatibility before full-face use.

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